All FAQ
-
A
How To Tell Engine Carbon Accumulation
No. 1
First and most obvious is the increase in fuel consumption. Carbon deposition is a gelatinous material that is highly absorbent, partially absorbing some of the fuel injected into the cylinder and increasing the resistance of some of the mechanical parts inside the piston and crankshaft. What's more, the fuel sucked up in this part will also form new carbon deposits in a state of incomplete combustion, a vicious cycle that will increase fuel consumption.
No.2
The second way to infer whether carbon has accumulated is that the car feels "dull" when accelerating or overtaking. No matter how we pedal, we can't give full play to the performance of the car, and sometimes we can hear abnormal noises coming from the engine, accompanied by a sense of frustration, which basically determines the accumulation of carbon, especially when overtaking.
No.3
The third phenomenon is also very obvious, when the engine has carbon accumulation, the engine idling speed is very unstable, the instrument panel pointer will also rise and fall, if the normal driving does not have too much impact, then it should also be the formation of carbon accumulation inside the engine.
No.4
Finally, the exhaust fumes are pungent, which may not be caused by carbon accumulation, because it may be caused by three-way catalytic converters. However, cars with high carbon accumulation are difficult to fully burn fuel, and the pungent smell comes from sulfur dioxide produced by incomplete combustion of fuel. With a professional cleaning agent cleaning three-way catalytic converter, it can be solved.
-
A
Taboos in Run-in Period
1,New cars should be properly lightenedEverything in your new car is new, so don't challenge its capacity when you first drive. Because the car in the running-in period, a lot of parts have not been worn out, too much bearing capacity is likely to make some parts of the car due to huge pressure and increase the engine, transmission system wear, very injury car.2,Don't stay in gear for too longSome friends in order to let the car faster than the run-in period, will deliberately to grind the car. The most typical way is low speed often hang in five or four gears, so although it can cause the car faster running, fit, but actually very hurt the car. Because the run-in period for the engine, is a factory after the reconstruction process, that is, there are some parts of the engine wheel shaft surface bite is not good, uneven place, to be used through natural wear away. Some manufacturers will be in the factory oil plus some abrasive, in order to enhance the effect of grinding, so deliberately grinding the car is completely unnecessary!3,Do not change the oil ahead of timeAs we all know, the best oil in a car must be the original oil. But many people will be silly, go ahead to change the oil, think it is better for the car. But do you know, the original oil is the best in terms of heat dissipation, viscosity, oxidation resistance and cleaning effect. So when you change the oil, it's best to use your car's mileage as a reference.
-
A
The Expansion Valve of Automobile Air Conditioner Is Out Of Order
The most common failure of the air conditioning valve expansion valve is the jam, and the congestion of the thermal expansion valve in the refrigeration system is often occurring, including the dirty plug and the "ice plug".The main reason for the dirty plugging is that there are impurities in the system, such as slag, copper, iron, fiber, etc. The reason for the ice jam is that the system contains too much water (moisture).The method of obstruction fault exclusion of car air conditioning valveFor the dirt, if it's not very serious, change a dry filter. If it is very serious, you will reclean the impurities in the system line, vacuum the vacuum, and re-fill the refrigerant. For the light ice jam, the hot towel is applied to the ice block, and if the ice congestion is serious, it has affected the normal operation of the system, and the drying device has been removed, and the water in the system line is reused, the vacuum is vacuum and the refrigerant is recharged.
-
A
"Hidden Features" Of Fuel Cap
No 1. The first function is to remind us which number of gasoline should be added to the car, because many owners do not know the most appropriate number of gasoline when they just buy a new car. In fact, there is a label on the oil tank lid of the car, and we will find that the inside of the lid is marked with which number of gasoline should be usedNo 2. There is a drain hole in the oil tank cover, which will be on an inclined plane of the car under normal circumstances, so it is convenient to drain the water after having the drain hole, especially in rainy days, the drain hole can drain out the excess sewage, which will not cause some pollution to our car gasolineNo3. One of the most important functions is to mark the fuel tank cover of the car should be used in addition to the gasoline model, and mark the car should use the car tire pressure, because each car suitable for the tire pressure is not quite the same, so we can according to the standard tire pressure on the cover to adjust
-
-
A
Headlight bulb replacement can be easy, but there are things you should know. It is essential to be ready to fix your cars lights if they even have a problem. Not only is a burned out light a safety issue, but also it can cost you if you get pulled over by police for this problem. Fixing this issue yourself can be done, but you need to know a few things first.The Truth Behind Headlight Bulb ReplacementWhat you might have heard: "Changing headlight bulbs is a snap!"... "You don't need any tools" or "Headlights are cheap and easy to replace"The truth: In the past, replacing headlight bulbs meant having to swap out the entire headlamp assembly. Thankfully for cars today this is no longer the case - Car manufacturers have been using halogen bulbs that are separately replaceable for many years.Changing headlamp bulbs is often straightforward. On most cars you simply push and twist and it is out, but for some cars you still have to remove the headlamp assembly. Usually there are quick release tabs or buttons and you need to know where these are located and how to get them to work so you don't break anything.More good news: You can find a pair of headlight bulbs selling for just $10 to $80 on Amazon. I usually just buy from Amazon because they carry a huge collection of bulbs for almost all vehicle models and makes... plus their shipping is both fast and free.How to Change Headlight Bulb1. Pop open your engine compartment hood and locate the bulb holder at the back of the headlight. You will see a power connector (consisting of three wires) held by a metal clip, plastic catch or screw cap. If there is a dust cover protecting the power connector, remove it first.2. Disconnect the power connector. Metal clip: lift it up then pull it out, Plastic catch: Press down on the lever with your thumb and pull, Screw cap: Just unscrew it3. Remove the old headlight bulb from its socket4. Take out the new bulb from its packaging. Do not touch the glass surface of the bulb with your bare hands during headlight bulb replacement - If the the oil on your hands gets onto the glass surface, it may cause the bulb to heat up and burn out. It's recommended that you clean the new bulb with alcohol wipes before installing it.5. Hold the new bulb by its base and insert it into the back of the headlight. Proceed to reconnect the power connector. Finally turn on your headlights to make sure everything is working.If you can't figure out how to get to the headlight area, then you will need vehicle-specific instructions for headlight bulb replacement. If you just start taking things apart, you could end up with a pile of parts and not remember where they all go.To troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. For this I personally use and recommend ALLDATAdiy. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals. Click here for a sample of their diagnostic and repair information.
-
-
A
Why won't my car start? Find what are the common reasons a car won't start and what to do to get your car up and running again.As a rough guideline, problems with the battery, alternator and starter are the most common causes of a car or truck failing to start.As a professional mechanic, I have diagnosed and fixed hundreds of vehicle that were unable to start up. I have listed solutions to the most common problems I have seen below, as well as the most popular questions that I get from my visitors on this topic.If you still have any unresolved vehicle problems or questions, you can ask an auto mechanic online. For expert answers specific to your vehicle's make and model, I recommend JustAnswer Car. They have a large pool of certified mechanics to answer your questions for a small fee and you can also browse their answers to other users for free.Top Reasons a Car Won't StartTo troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. For this I personally use and recommend ALLDATAdiy. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals. Click here for a sample of their diagnostic and repair information. Car Won't Start, Clicking NoiseMy 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 6 cyl will not start after sitting more than 4 hours. Before I even put the key into the ignition I hear a clicking noise on the right side may be under hood may be under the dash.Battery is drained to nothing (no lights inside car or out) once I put a charge on it, it will start, clicking noise goes away. I drive it and then when I park it and shut it off for 4 or more hours the same thing happens again. Battery tested good, as did alternator. Seems as though whatever is making the clicking noise while car is not even on is draining the battery in a matter of 4 hours.Answer: The most likely reason your car won't start is due to a bad relay. This clicking noise is most likely one of your relays turning on and off. When it is on it is using battery power and this is probably what is running your battery down.Look for the fuse relay block under your hood. You should be looking for a small black box. The one that is clicking is the one that is most likely bad. You should be able to just buy a new one and replace it.Car Cranks But Won't StartI have a 1991 Toyota Camry 4 cyl california emmisions that is getting no spark. Battery seems good, the engines cranks but car won't start. Removed #1 plug wire, installed plug in wire and grounded threads to valve cover and saw no spark when engine was cranked. Timing belt replaced last year, remanufactured distributer installed 4 months ago along with new plugs, plug wires, distributer cap and rotor.Have measured 12 VDC at coil, so far no problems with fuses or relays evident. Checked diagnostic port and received error from chk engine light 2 short blinks then a pause and then 4 short blinks (ECU failure). Replaced ignitor (ECU) with a used identical replacement. After changing ignitor (ECU) and checking diagnostic port the chk engine light would blink steady at a quick rate indicating no trouble.Still no spark and my car won't start, please help.Answer: For your car, code 24 indicates a problem in the Intake Air Temperature Sensor circuit. This could be the IAT sensor itself, it could be your car's ECU, or it could even be a problem in the wiring between the ECU and the IAT.The most likely cause is a bad sensor, but it is possible that the ECU is bad as well. You mentioned that you replaced the Ignitor. This is not the ECU. Your car's computer is located behind the center of your instrument panel. Most likely it is fine, but it is possible that it is bad.There are a couple of things that cause no starts that you might want to have tested or replaced. They are the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP). These sensors are what the computer uses to calculate timing, spark and fuel injector pulse width. If one of theses sensors were bad it could cause a no start.Car Won't Start But Turns OverI have a 1993 Ford Mustang convertible. It seems as if the gas isn't quite getting to the engine. Everything is turning over, but my car won't start. There is enough gas in the tank.Answer: The first thing you need to do is determine if it is a fuel problem or a spark problem. If you don't have one you will need to buy an inline spark tester and a fuel pressure tester that will fit your car.Test the fuel pressure and see if there is spark. After you know which of those you don't have, you will know whether to start checking fuel system related items or to look at the ignition system.In your case, the most common reason your car won't start is probably due to a fuel related problem such as a bad fuel pump.Car Won't Start Sometimes, No Lights, No RadioI just replaced the starter, battery, and alternator on my 1994 Nissan Sentra. Now my car won't start sometimes, and the dome light, radio and seat belt will not work. Please helpAnswer: The most likely cause of your problem is a bad connection somewhere or even a new defective battery.You should re-check all of your connections, especially your battery cable connections. Be sure they are clean and tight. If they are not it could cause this problem. Also check all of your other connections to be sure they are clean and tight.You might even want to check all of the fuses. If the wrong wires touched you could just have a fuse blown.Car Won't Start After Jump StartMy car won't start one day so I jump started it and then it started making a loud clicking noise while I was driving it and while the engine idled.Next day car started okay with no clicking noise, but the next time I tried to start it that day, it would not start. Again I tried to jump it, but it would not start. When turning the key in the ignition while trying to jump the car, there was a clicking noise.Do you think this is a starter problem or could it be a broken timing belt? (1998 Mazda Millenia 2.5L)Answer: The first thing you need to do is have your electrical system checked out. Your alternator might not be charging your battery the way it should or you could have a faulty battery.Most auto parts stores will test the alternator and battery for free. Be sure to have them do a load test on your battery. Load testing is more accurate than just checking voltage as it shows how good the battery is when there is an electrical load put on it.The clicking noise you are hearing is most likely from one or more relays turning on and off. Relays will do this when there is not enough voltage in the electrical system to keep them turned on. It is a classic symptom of a low voltage situation.It is possible that this is a starter problem, but since you have relays that are clicking on and off it is probably not the starter. You could also have a problem with the starter solenoid, but that is also unlikely.I think once you have your battery and alternator checked, you will find your problem. Keep in mind that you need to check your battery cables for corrosion and tightness. They need to be clean and tight in order for the alternator to be able to charge the battery.Car Won't Start, No CrankMy Jeep has a 4 liter engine and when I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump come on but when I try to crank it nothing happens except the parking brake light in the dash comes on for as long as the key is in the start position.This is the second time this has happened, and both times I started the jeep to move it out of the way and when I tried to start it again nothing happened. The first time it did this I let it sit for about 10 hours and every thing was fine. The second time it sat over night and still nothing happens when I try to start it. I hope it isn't too confusing and any info will help. Thanks. (1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee)Answer: This sounds like some type of electrical problem. The first thing I would check is your battery cable connections. Be sure they are clean and tight. Then have your battery and alternator tested to be sure that they are working correctly and are not faulty. Most auto parts stores will provide this car won't start help for free.After all of that is done, you need to see why it is not turning over by checking for power at the starter. Check for battery voltage at the large post on the starter solenoid at all times, then see if there is battery voltage at the small ignition terminal with the key in the start position.If there is power at both of these terminals then you simply have a starter or solenoid problem. If you suspect this you can try giving the starter a couple good blows with a hammer when it won't turn over. Sometimes this will jar it free.Battery is Good But Car Won't StartI have a 1996 Cadillac Deville V8 with a 4.6L engine. My car won't start and I thought it was my battery so I bought a new one. Someone told me that it could be my starter or my ignition. How do i know what is the reason my car won't start and how do I fix it?Answer: Your starting problem could indeed be caused by your starter or your ignition switch. If the engine turns over good, then it is not a problem with either of those things.If it does not turn over (I'm assuming it does not), then the first thing to check is that your battery cables are clean and tight. I'm guessing that you have already done this since you replaced your battery, but you should re-check them just to be sure.The next thing to check is to see if your dash lights come on when you turn your key on. If they do then most likely your ignition switch is just fine (but it still could be bad, it's just not likely). If they don't come on, then you either have a problem with your ignition switch or a wiring problem that is not letting power get to the ignition switch and starter.Engine Won't Crank, No Lights, No RadioI have a 1995 Chevy S10 with a 4.3L that I am having problems with. Two days ago the truck died and nothing would work. It wouldn't crank, the lights and radio won't work, nothing.I took the alternator and had it checked, it was ok, when I put it back in it started right up again. I drove it home and then the next time I drove it the same thing happen. Someone told me the "ignition control module" may be bad. I am just looking for other suggestions.Answer: This sounds more like a battery problem or maybe even a problem with your battery cables. The fact that nothing would come on tells me that there was something preventing any power from getting to the fuse block and the rest of the car.The first thing I would to is check your battery cables. I would even clean them and then make sure they are tight. After that I would take it to an auto parts store to have them load test the battery. This will tell you if it is being caused by the battery.I think you will find your problem in one of those areas. I really doubt that your ignition control module is bad because that would have nothing to do with the lights and radio not working. It is possible that it is an ignition switch problem, but that is not likely.Car Won't Start After StallingI have a 1993 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.9l V6. It stalled and won't start. I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter, replaced pump relay and auto shut down relay (ASD Relay) with new relays. Checked wiring from relay block on left wheel well also replaced cap and rotor and spark plugs what else should I check? ThanksAnswer: The first thing you need to do is determine whether your truck is not getting fuel, not getting spark or has bad compression. Usually random stalling is not caused by a compression problem but it is possible.You will need a few tools to do this testing. You should start with a compression test. Be sure that all of the spark plugs are out, then disable the ignition system. Using a compression tester kit, check each cylinder to see if there are any that are low on compression.The next thing you will need to do is get a fuel pressure tester for your fuel system. Be sure to get one that will work for your truck. Then simply hook into the fuel system and see what the pressure is.To check spark, you will an inline spark tester. This type of tester hooks in between the spark plug wire and the spark plug. Then you just try to start the engine and see if the tester lights.After all of these tests have been done you will have narrowed the problem down to one system instead of three. After you get it narrowed down, you can start looking at each component of the problematic system.Keep in mind that there is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for the distributor drive bushing wearing out. This could be the source of your problem as well. Also, ignition coils and the ignition pickup inside the distributor are common problems with these trucks.Car Won't Start, Clicking Noise, Battery WorksI have a 2006 Ford Explorer. The battery is fully charged and my car won't start. When I take the key out of the ignition there is a clicking sound coming from the run/start relay. What could be the problem?Answer: To figure out why your car won't start, there are several things to check. The first is to see if your battery cables are clean and tight. It is very important that they are as just a little corrosion or a little looseness can cause this type of problem.The next thing to do is have your battery load tested. Even though it is fully charged it can still be bad under a high load, like when you try to start it.The next thing that could be causing it is your starter, relay or solenoid. Sometimes a relay will go bad and cause this type of problem. You can try to switch the relay that was doing the clicking with another relay to see if that will get it to start. If it does then you know that the relay was bad.It is possible that you have a bad ignition switch as well but that is not as likely. I think you will find your problem with your battery, cables, connections or relays.Car Won't Start After Replacing O2 SensorsI have a 1994 Camaro v6 and after replacing the top two o2 sensors I was able to drive it home just fine but when I went to start it up again it would only turn over for a second or two and die. Any suggestions?Answer: If it did not do this before you replaced the O2 sensors, then you must have either forgotten to plug something back in or you might have hit something. The first thing to do is re-check everything that you might had removed or disconnected to do this job. Most likely there is something that just was not hooked back up.If that is not the problem, then the next thing to do is put the old O2 sensors in and see if you have the same problem. While O2 sensors aren't the usual culprits if your car won't start, but it's best to confirm.Car Won't Start, No Spark1994 Chevy Camaro V6 3.4L. It quit running while driving. I checked all fuses in car and under the hood. When you turn the key, you can hear fuel pump build up pressure like it should. When you try to start it turns over fine. I pulled one spark plug wire and had it in close to body bolt to see if I could get a spark and I did not get anything so my question is where should I start my troubleshooting?Answer: Since your car wont't start and there is no spark, you need to first check the spark plugs and wires. It is not likely that these are the problem but it is possible. The next thing you need to check is to see if the distributor is getting power and if the coil is sending spark to the plugs.Some of the most likely causes of this problem are the coil, ignition control module and crankshaft sensor.Car Won't Start After Short DriveMy 2005 Equinox LT bgean with a simple problem. The car would start up fine in the morning and after sitting a long time but if I ran in the store or to pick up kids, my car won't start - I'd have to let it sit for a minute or two - it kinda seemed like the engine was flooded.Well, just the other day, after an 8 hr day at work, I went to start it and nothing clicked/started no sound whatsoever. Then I tried it again, and it started up fine, no lag or strange sound. I thought it was a fluke until I went to pick up my son (5 min drive) and came back to find my car wouldn't start, no sound again. Even after trying to jump it for 5 min, the lights would come on but wouldn't start.My husband thought it was the battery, so he took it out and tested the voltage. It was fine. He put a new battery in and it didn't start. He put the old battery back in and the car started. Thoughts?Answer: This sounds like a frustrating problem. I know you're looking for car won't start help, but unfortunately I cannot be of much service.The main problem is that there are many things that can lead to this type of problem. It could be one of your engine sensors, it could be one of several computers on your car, it could be a wiring problem, an ignition switch problem or even and anti-theft problem.You mentioned that putting the old battery in made it start again, so you might try cleaning and tightening the battery cables. If they are clean and tight, you might try wiggling them while someone tries to start it to see if that will get it to start.Other than that the best advice I can give you is to take it to a repair shop that you trust to diagnose it. This is something that the dealer might have to diagnose, but some really good independent repair shops could probably do it too.Car Won't Start, Starter Works, Alternator Works, Battery WorksI have a 2000 Ford Windstar. One day it just won't start. We got it jumped and it worked. Something had drained the battery. We had the starter, alternator and battery tested. All were good.They also said there was no drain but if we left our battery connected overnight it would be dead the within a day. We just disconnected the battery at night and all seemed fine until one day we went somewhere and when we got in the van would not start.We tried to get it jumped and it still would not start. We were told it was the starter so we replaced the starter and it turned on. The next day we went somewhere again and it wouldn't restart once again. We tried to jump it once again and it did not work. It clicked a couple of times and then just wouldn't even click anymore.A mechanic hit the starter to get it to turn over. He told us the starter that we had just put in was bad. He tested the cable and said the power was going to the starter. We took the starter out and back to the store to get tested and were told it was working fine. We put the starter back in and it has worked for the day.It did take a lot of cranking when we started it this morning. Any ideas what exactly could be going on? Answer: Hi Misty. I think you'll need to find a mechanic who is great at diagnosing electrical problems.Specifically, they need to know how to do what is called a "voltage drop" test. This is a test that can tell you exactly what is bad in any electrical circuit. Believe it or not, there are plenty of mechanics out there who do not know how to carry out this test. If you can find a repair shop that specializes in electrical systems they will probably have someone that will know how to do it.As to your question, there are any number of things why your car won't start. I have seen starters that test just fine, but when you get them installed they don't work. They can be worn out inside and not work when they are installed, but then they can be taken off of the car, get bumped around and test just fine.I have also seen these type of problems be caused simply by loose battery cables. It is surprising how many times I have seen major problems caused by such a simple thing.Another thing it could be is your ignition switch. If it is bad it might not be sending the right amount of voltage to the starter in order to get it turning.As you can see, there are many things that can cause this type of problem. If I had to guess I would say it is a starter problem, but to really find out you need to take it to a really good electrical mechanic.Car Won't Start, Turn Overs Then DiesJust got the brakes fixed on my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 and noticed that it was hard to start and the battery indicator said batt was low (left it sitting for three weeks while out of town), so jumped it and took it to the shop for brakes.Just got the truck back and again it seemed hard to start, so figuring it just needed to charge I was going to let it sit but IT WONT START! I tried jumping thinking the battery was still low and nothing. There is no light on the dash and when I turn the key it says 'wait to start' as always but when I go to turn it on it tries to turn over but then just dies. What could be happening?Answer: It sounds like the jumper cables might not have had a good enough connection. My guess is that your battery is weak so it keeps losing its charge. If it sat around with a low battery for very long, then it is most likely bad.You can have them tested at most auto parts stores for free. Be sure to have them do a load test. This test puts a load on the battery to see if it is good and is much more accurate than any other test.You should also check your battery cables and connections. If there is any corrosion or if they are loose they can cause this very problem. You can use a mix of baking soda and water to clean them up.Car Won't Start, Clicking Noise, Won't Turn OverMy car won't start. What does it mean when your car is making a loud fast clicking noise and the engine doesn't turn over? (1994 Mazda B4000 2WD Truck)Answer: Thanks for submitting your question. The most likely cause of your problem is not enough voltage is getting to the starter.There are several common causes of this condition. The first and most likely is that you have a bad battery. You can have it tested at any good auto parts store. If it is not fully charged or faulty, it might send the right amount of voltage to your starter... thus causing the clicking noise.It could also be a starter or starter solenoid problem. If it is faulty, it can cause this type of clicking noise.If the battery tests good then you probably need a new starter.It is also possible that you have some type of wiring problem in the ignition circuit. You could also just have loose or corroded battery cables.Car Won't Start on First TryWhen my 2006 Cobalt LT 2.2 liter sits for over a few hrs, it will not start on the first try but it has always started the second try. This problem just started a few days ago. I can tell that the ignition is working fine but it sounds like it isn't getting gas or something.I just replaced the fuel filter last night to see if that was the cause but then again this morning it took two times to try and start. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? I think it is a problem with something in the fuel system but am not sure why my car won't start on first attempt. Please help! Thanks, David G.Answer: The first thing you need to do is find out whether this is a spark problem or a fuel problem.In order to do this you will need a fuel pressure tester and an inline spark tester. Test the fuel pressure when it won't start and test the spark when it won't start. If the fuel pressure is low then you are looking at a fuel pump, or regulator problem most likely.If there is no spark when car won't start, then you are most likely looking at a problem with things like the ignition control module, coils, ignition switch etc.Car Cranks But Won't Start, Smoke ExhaustI have an 1988 Buick Century 3.8 it will crank but not start. It's getting fire and gas to the fuel rail. Smoke comes out of the air filter? HELP PLEASE.Answer: There are several possible reasons why your car won't start. Since you are getting fuel (and I'm assuming that you are getting the right fuel pressure as well) and you are getting spark, this helps me narrow the possibilities.Three main things are needed for your car to start: spark, fuel and compression. Timing is required as well. Since you already have spark and fuel, we should be able to safely say that the problem is likely related to compression and/or timing.The first thing you should do is check the compression of your engine. Make sure that the cylinders have the necessary compression to ignite the incoming fuel and air mixture.Next, you need to check timing. If there is fuel and spark but the timing is not correct it will not start. One of the best ways to do this is to bring the #1 cylinder up to top dead center compression then remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder. You can be sure it is on TDC on the compression stroke by removing a valve cover and checking to make sure the rocker arms are a little loose.If the rotor is not pointing to the right spark plug wire, then you might have a timing belt/chain problem. Sometimes they will slip or the gears or belt will wear and cause the timing to become misadjusted.Another easy check you can do is a vacuum check. If the vacuum is low then you might have a plugged catalytic converter or a vacuum leak.Be sure that all of your ignition components (spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc.) are in good condition.Some of these 3.8L engines had a problem with the wiring that goes to the distributor. To check this, you can have someone wiggle these wires while you crank the engine to see if it will start. If it does then you have probably found your problem.Fuel Pump Works But Car Won't StartMy truck died on the way work. I got it to start again after work and drove it home. I got it started again to drive it closer to my home and it died again after a few seconds.Now I can't seem to get it to start again unless I use starting fluid. Since I could run it on starting fluid, I knew I had spark. I had a new high pressure pump replaced a couple of months before. I know I am getting fuel to the high pressure pump and to the fuel pressure regulator.I changed the fuel pressure regulator with no success. I then changed the ignition module with no effect. I am at the end of my rope here with no ride to work. Please any help you can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, James B. (1988 Ford F-150 4.9L 6 Cylinder)Answer: It sounds like you are right in saying that you have good spark and probably good fuel pressure. This helps us narrow down the possible causes for your fuel system problem.The first thing that comes to mind is that you should check your fuel pressure just to make sure it is not dropping out. This is a very easy thing to check with a fuel pressure gauge.It sounds like the computer might not be telling the fuel injectors to turn on. Your truck's computer gets information from the crankshaft and camshaft sensors (as well as a few others) to determine when to fire the injectors and for how long.What you need to do is get a noid light and plug it into the injector harness. Then crank your engine like you are trying to start it. If the computer is telling the injectors to come on, then the light will blink. This is one of the best ways to tell if they are working.You can also use a long screwdriver and put one end on the injector and the other on your ear and see if you can hear a "pulse". This is much harder because there are so many other noises that sound similar.Once you determine whether or not the computer is turning on your injectors you will be able to further narrow it down. If the injectors are coming on then you need to look at timing, exhaust backpressure (possible plugged exhaust), etc. If they are not coming on then you need to look at crankshaft and camshaft sensors, wiring etc.Car Won't Start, Cranks But Engine Won't TurnI have a 2000 Ford Contour SE 4 cylinder engine. 2.0 L. I have had many problems with this car since I bought it. I had the fuel tank and pump replaced last year. If I do not put Gumout in my gas tank every time I fill up the car, the car starts to sputter while driving from 50 mph-60 mph.Recently every once in a while the car would start and stall, but it would always fire up on the second try. Yesterday, the car started fine and I drove it for a few errands, then when I got home I turned off the car, ran inside the house and came back out and my car won't start! It cranks, but the engine will not turn.It does have gas, but I checked the oil and the dip stick showed that it was bone dry (this annoys me because I just got the oil changed 2 months ago).I have checked all of my fuses and none of them are bad. I started to check the spark plug wires and they look fine, but when pull it off of the spark plug it has oil at the tip of it. I do not have tool to get the spark plug out, but I can tell there is oil down there. I have only checked in one terminal. What could be the potential problems?Answer: The first thing that needs to be done is to see if you have spark and fuel pressure. You will need an inline spark tester and a fuel pressure tester for your car.Once you determine whether you are lacking spark or fuel pressure, then you can start narrowing down the possibilities.If you don't have spark then you are looking at an ignition component. Things like the coil, ignition control module, etc. If you don't have good fuel pressure then you are looking at things like the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator. Even though the fuel pump has been changed it could still be bad. Many fuel pumps even new are not reliable.Even though the dipstick shows that there is no oil, there is probably oil in the oil pan... just not enough to show on the dipstick. While you should add oil as soon as possible, this problem will not cause it to not start. If your engine truly didn't have any oil in it then there would be a light on the instrument panel and probably an audible warning of low oil pressure.The oil on the spark plugs is most likely caused by a bad valve cover gasket, but also shouldn't be a reason your car won't start.Car Won't Start Sometimes Unless Brake is PressedMy car won't start sometimes when I turn the key. I have to depress the brake and she will turn over. I've never had to press the brake before. Please help. (2000 Toyota 4Runner)Answer: All cars with an automatic transmission have a safety feature that will not let the key turn over unless the car is in park or neutral. This neutral safety switch will not send power to the starter until the gear shifter is in park or neutral.There is also a feature that will not let the gear shifter move out of park until you put your foot on the brake. Sometimes these two things are part of one assembly. If these parts get worn it might cause the problem that you are having.The most likely cause of your problem is this neutral safety switch that is not working correctly. I'm guessing that when you step on your brake it causes the neutral safety switch contacts to move just a little and send power to your starter like it should.I think if you have your neutral safety switch replaced it should fix your problem of your car not starting.
-
A
So we'll share the right way to Test a Fan Clutch with you by our clutch alignment tool.Step 1With the engine off, inspect the fan blades carefully. Make sure the blades are all in good shape and secured to the fan hub. Replace the fan if necessary.Step 2Look carefully around the fan clutch for signs of oil leakage. Fluid-coupling and thermostatic fan clutches are filled with silicone-based oil; if you find a leak, replace the fan clutch.Step 3Grab the fan assembly with your hands and move it back and forth. If the clutch or fan have excessive play, remove the fan and clutch and check if the water pump shaft -- where the fan-clutch assembly mounts -- displays excessive play. If the water pump shaft checks OK, replace the fan clutch.Step 4Try to spin the fan with your hands. A healthy fluid-coupling clutch should offer some resistance to fan rotation, because the silicone oil is thick and viscous. If the fan spins without resistance or is hard to rotate, replace the clutch.Step 5Turn on the engine and let it idle. If you have a thermostatic clutch type -- look for the thermostatic spring at the front of the clutch -- the fan should not turn until the engine reaches operating temperature. If the fan rotates when you turn on the engine, or the fan does not work after four or five minutes when the engine reaches operating temperature, replace the clutch. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge indicator on the instrument panel.Test the fluid-coupling fan clutch visually with the engine running. This type of fan is designed to slip at high engine speeds. Have an assistant rev up the engine. At high speeds, you should see the fan slowing down or stopping.TipsThe first sign of a fan clutch stuck in the permanently engaged position is a fan that never shuts off. Wait for the engine to cool down to dead cold and start it up; most fans will turn some whenever the engine's running, but they shouldn't be running hard enough to hear from inside the car with the hood shut. If you hear the rush of air from your fan while the engine is cold, there's a good chance the clutch is shot. If this is the case, you may also notice a drop in acceleration and fuel economy as the engine expends its energy unnecessarily blowing hot air.A clutch that is worn out and won't engage will cause the engine to run hot, particularly at idle.
-
-
A
An AC clutch engages and disengages the compressor when your car's air conditioning is turned on and off. Once an electrical current from the on/off switch sends power to the magnetic coil, it causes the outboard clutch to pull in toward the compressor, locking up the pulley and engaging the compressor. Because the clutch is attached to the compressor shaft, if it becomes disengaged, it will not move the compressor shaft. So how to Repair the AC Clutch by our product of 17pcs universal clutch aligning tool set ?A few steps will help you remedy this problem.Step 1Remove the air conditioning accessory belt with the proper size wrench in your wrench set. Disconnect the connector on your compressor's magnetic coil. Use the right size socket to remove the 6 mm bolt in the center of the AC clutch.Step 2Pull the clutch off, and observe the spacers on the shaft behind it. They are used to gap the clutch properly, so keep them in a safe place to avoid losing them. Remove the snap-ring on the shaft that secures the pulley, and slide this off the shaft.Step 3Clean the shaft and other parts thoroughly before installation. Insert the new pulley, and engage the snap-ring with the beveled edge facing outward.Step 4Install one spacer on the compressor shaft, then install the clutch, and fasten the 6 mm bolt securely.Step 5Place the feeler gauge between the clutch and the pulley to ensure proper clearance. If the clearance is not correct, remove the clutch plate and add another spacer.Check the air gap to ensure the clutch will engage properly. If the air gap and/or clearance are not accurate, your clutch might wear out more quickly. Adjoin the connector to the electromagnetic coil.
-
A
A bearing separator comes in handy when replacing the steering pump, rebuilding your alternator or performing any other similar repair job in your car or any other piece of equipment. A bearing separator is very effective in removing bearings, pulleys, gears and bushes fitted too close to the housing or other components, leaving regular jaw pullers no chance to do their job. Save on repair costs and finish your repair job in your garage using a few tools along with a bearing separator.Use Your SeparatorStep 1Unscrew the two large bolts on each side of the bearing separator -- holding the separator split plate together -- just enough so the part you want to remove fits right in the middle of the separator plate. Use a wrench, if necessary.Step 2Place the bearing separator over and behind the bearing, gear or pulley you want to remove, with each half of the separator plate on each side. If the separator plate does not fit right behind the part you want to pull because the space is too tight, line the center, tapered edge of the split plate as close to the bottom of the part as possible.Step 3Tighten the two bearing-separator bolts with a wrench so the separator plates fit tight behind, or close to the bottom of, the part you want to remove. You want the plates to be tight enough around the part to get a good grip, but not too tight to prevent damage to any component.Step 4Screw the twin, steel beam over the bearing separator using a wrench. The twin beam comes with your bearing separator kit and has two large bolts on each side and another large bolt on the center of the beam. You want to screw the two side bolts on the beam to the two threaded holes provided on the separator plate.Step 5Begin to screw the beam's center screw by hand until the race on the tip of this screw rests on the shaft where the bearing, gear or pulley you want to remove is mounted on.Step 6Start to tighten the beam's center screw with a wrench, making sure the bearing separator plates are holding tight on the part you want to remove. As you tighten the beam's center screw, the bearing separator plates will begin to pull on the part you want to remove.Keep tightening the beam's center screw until you release the bearing, gear or pulley off the mounting center shaft. Or, if you prefer, you can remove the bearing separator once there is enough room behind the part you want to remove for the puller legs of a jaw puller to finish removing the part.Have you learned how to use it?
-
A
What Causes a P0300 Code?Low Fuel PressureVacuum LeakEGR system malfunctionInternal Engine Problems (such as low compression)Less Common CausesFaulty CoilFaulty Spark Plugs and/or WiresCamshaft or Crankshaft sensorsIgnition moduleComputerTo troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. For this I personally use and recommend ALLDATAdiy. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals.How to Fix Fault Code P0300This code is one of the most common codes ever. If you notice that your check engine light is on you should have it checked for this code. If it is flashing then it is almost certainly this one or one like it such as P0301, P0302, etc. These are codes that show which cylinder the misfire is located in.The first thing I would do if the problem wasn't obvious by inspection is a full tune up. Many times this will fix this code. If you want to do more diagnosis so you don't just throw parts at it you will need to check each of the above items starting with the top four.The two most useful tests for diagnosing this code are a fuel pressure test and cylinder leak down test.Testing your vehicle fuel pressure is simple - All you need is a good product.A cylinder leakdown test is a little harder to do for the backyard mechanic because you need a source of compressed air. If you have that though, you can just go buy a cheap goods. This tool simply puts shop air into the cylinders when they are at top-dead-center (they should be sealed at this point). If there is leakage at this point then you will have a low compression problem.If you don't know how to check the items in the list above, you should take your car to a good auto repair shop. It probably will not (in most cases) cost too much for them to repair this problem. You car will run better, have more power and get better fuel mileage if you get the P0300 code repaired. It will also not be causing other problems by driving it like this.
-
Loading...