All FAQ
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CV jointsWhile the wheel has remained more or less round since its inception, the axle has evolved to spin in all manner of configurations and situations. Insofar as automobiles are concerned, there are more than a few different types of axles. Some are of the short and stubby variety like the spindles upon which nondriven wheels spin. Things get more complicated, however, when the axles have to deliver power to the wheels. If a powered wheel had nothing to do but roll on a perfectly smooth surface, the solution would be simple. A straight axle with no suspension would do the job. As anybody who has recently driven around can attest, roads are everything but perfectly smooth; thus, the axle must be able to deliver power to the wheels and travel with the suspension as it soaks up the bumps.This gets particularly tricky in the case of a front-wheel-drive car, where the wheels are steering the vehicle as well. With all the angles created by the suspension traveling over the bumps and wheels steering to and fro, the axle must be as flexible as a gymnast while spinning like a whirling dervish. The solution was to make axles with constant velocity (CV) joints. Front-wheel, all-wheel and certain rear-wheel-drive vehicles with independent suspensions also use this same type of axle, which employs two CV joints to deliver flexible power to the wheels. Some vehicles even employ CV joint axles in the drivelines.Assessing axle wearA CV joint is a collection of bearings and cages that allows for axle rotation and power delivery on a number of different angles and planes and enables the axle to change length as it travels up and down. All the parts spin around in a protective layer of grease that is held inside the joint by a flexible, rubber boot. Without the boot, the grease would simply spin out of the CV joints. The boot also keeps dirt and grime out. On the CV axle are two CV joints along with one or two sets of splines. One side of the axle gets power from the engine while the other delivers the power to the driven wheel. Presto.Over time the rubber boots of the CV joints can become cracked, torn or otherwise compromised. Once moisture and dirt get into a CV joint axle and grease makes its way out, the CV joint’s days are numbered. Signs of impending failures are a click-click-clicking or metallic crackling noise while turning and accelerating or a clunking upon deceleration. While one can repack, reboot and rebuild CV axles, it makes more sense for the average do-it-yourselfer to procure replacement units and swap out the old axles. If a boot is torn or missing, it is possible to save the joint if caught early enough, but usually the damage has already been done. Replacing or servicing the entire CV joint axle assembly may be the smarter move since replacing a boot may involve removing an axle, which may also involve removing half or all of the vehicle’s brakes and suspension.Replacing CV joint axlesWhile the basic concept of a CV joint axle is the same from vehicle to vehicle, there are a number of different peculiarities that make access to a service manual an important first step before disassembly. Axle pullers and impact wrenches may be required. Pry bars, c-clips and snap rings inside differentials may also be part of the bargain. This knowledge is best gained before getting started, not while 90-weight gear oil is dripping down your sleeve.How-to steps for replacing two CV joint axlesStep 1: This is a rear drive vehicle with two CV joint axles. Start by disconnecting the battery, jacking up the vehicle and allowing some penetrating oil to soak into any retaining bolts.Step 2: In this case, suspension disassembly was not required. Moving brake lines and other obstacles out of the way of wrenches is a good bet before beginning.Step 3: Loosening but not removing the strut top mounts and sway bar end link bushings can provide a bit more suspension travel for easier axle removal.Step 4: Loosen and remove the wheel side axle mounting bolts.Step 5: Separate the axle from the wheel. Do not allow the axle to hang from the transmission or differential. Oil seals could be damaged.Step 6: Gently pull, pry or otherwise liberate the axle from the transmission or differential. Do not bend axle seals. Be careful not to tear the transmission or differential oil seals.Step 7: The axle splines on the left show damage. Note the c-clip on both axles.Step 8: Don't forget to transfer any axle seals, ABS rings or other parts to the replacement axles.Step 9: Guide the replacement CV joint axle into place. Depending on the type of retainer, the axle should click firmly in place.Step 10: Always use the proper torque on the axle bolts. Check axle rotation. Reassemble dismantled components.
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Replacing a leaking oil pan is one of the best ways to ensure your engine is receiving the oil it needs, and it can sometimes be done in a matter of a few simple steps. For the lucky few, the source can be a loose oil-pan drain plug, a dipstick tube that’s come unseated from the engine block, or an oil filter that’s either not screwed down or has a cracked gasket.Detect oil leaking from an oil pan To trace oil leaking from an oil pan, begin by cleaning the engine with a degreaser, possibly at the self-service car wash. When external oil reappears, follow the trail to its highest point. Hopefully, the culprit will be one of the offenders listed above. If the evidence leads to the top of the oil pan, however, the solution will be more labor intensive.Installation of oil pan gasket replacement A service manual is a valuable resource when removing the oil pan. Other parts and brackets might need to be removed first to access the pan and its bolts, the locations of which are illustrated in the manual. Vehicle-specific procedures will also be described in the manual, such as if the crankshaft needs to be rotated before the pan will come out. Also read the instructions that come with the oil pan gasket replacement to see what, if any, sealers and chemicals the job requires.The steps here show oil-pan gasket replacement on a front-wheel-drive car. The job is somewhat straightforward, but it can be messy. Be conscientious of a few potential pitfalls: Try not to bend the oil pan when removing it. Attempting to pry the pan loose with a screwdriver can bend the mounting surface. Tapping it with a mallet can actually crack the pan if all bolts aren’t out. (Double-check the bolt count and locations in the manual if the pan doesn’t release easily.) Once the oil pan is off the vehicle, check it for metal shavings to reveal other potential problems. Also clean all sludge out of the pan and inspect for cracks before reinstalling it. h3,.surfaced-item-copy" data-analytics="{ "name": "list" }" style="box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px 0px 2rem; list-style-type: none; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; color: rgb(43, 38, 38); font-family: EMprint, "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, "Lucida Grande", sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"Step 1: Obtain the appropriate oil pan gasket replacement. Gasket materials vary depending on what types of metals they’re intended to seal. Name-brand gaskets come with any necessary sealants.Step 2: While the oil is draining, remove the splash shield and bellhousing cover.Step 3: In front-wheel-drive vehicles, the oil pan is often mated to the transaxle. Other accessories such as exhaust-manifold support and air-conditioning bracketry might need to be detached too.Step 4: A service manual helps identify all oil-pan bolt locations. Some might be obscured behind other parts.Step 5: Removing the wheel-well-liner pieces eased access to the outboard passenger's side bolts on this vehicle.Step 6: Once all bolts are removed, the pan can be dropped. If necessary, tap it lightly with a mallet to break the seal.Step 7: Scrape off any gasket residue and clean all sealing surfaces thoroughly with a solvent. Also clean the inside of the oil pan and inspect it for cracks. Then install the new gasket per its instructions. This one uses regular grease to hold it in position.Step 8: Use thread sealer, if specified, then torque the oil pan bolts to spec in a spiral pattern, beginning in the center. Reattach any accessory brackets, refill the crankcase with oil, start the engine and inspect for leaks.
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If your car won't start or it hesitates when you crank it, you might have a bad ignition coil. Testing an ignition coil on most cars is pretty easy. No special tools are required, and you don't even have to remove the coil. Just remember to be careful, because the amount of electricity generated by your ignition system can be dangerous.What the Coil DoesAn ignition coil is a kind of high-voltage transformer. It converts the power from your car's 12-volt battery into the thousand or so volts that the spark plugs need in order to fire and then ignite the engine's air-fuel mixture. Although manufactured to last, ignition coils are not fail-safe. Over time, heat, vibration from the road, and even degraded insulation will necessitate that you change out this part.Safety FirstYou can easily test the coil on your car yourself, either while it's still on the car or after you've removed it. Just take a few precautions first. Make sure you're wearing a pair of safety glasses and old clothing with no loose sleeves or shirttails that can get caught in the engine or elsewhere on the vehicle. Also be aware that your car's engine is an electrical system, so be cautious when you are working on a running engine and avoid those parts and processes that can deliver a shock—or worse.Testing the CoilYou don't have to remove the coil in order to test it. It can be done by checking the spark plugs. For this test, you'll need a pair of safety goggles, some insulated pliers, a spark plug socket tool, and a helper. The test can be done in two easy steps:First, turn off your car's engine. Then consult your owner's manual to locate the wire that attaches to one of your spark plugs. Remove the wire and use a spark plug socket tool to remove the spark plug from its socket. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole.Next, reattach the spark plug wire. Hold the spark plug with a pair of insulated pliers and touch the threaded bare end of the spark plug to a grounding surface. Pretty much any exposed metal, including the engine itself, will do. Have your helper crank the engine while you look for a bright blue spark to jump across the spark plug gap. If you see a nice, bright spark (clearly visible in daylight) your coil is doing its job.If your coil is already off the car, or if there was no spark or the spark was weak, then move on to bench test your coil. This test will tell you without question whether or not you have a bad ignition coil.
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OverviewIn the old days (generally before 2000), changing your vehicle’s coolant was simple. That procedure is shown in Step 2, below. After 2000, cars got more complex and many DIYers got intimidated by the precise filling and “air-bleeding” procedures required to eliminate engine air pockets. But don’t worry, it’s easier than it looks. All it takes to get back in the game is a one-time $83 investment in an air-powered refilling tool. The details follow in Step 3.Either way, you can change your coolant yourself in about an hour. But before you do anything, check your owner’s manual for the recommended procedures and coolant for your car.Draining and refilling coolant in older carsHow to Put Coolant in a Car1.How to drain a radiator.Open drain cock ,Open the drain cock by unscrewing, twisting a quarter turn, or twisting and pulling. 2.Remove the hose,Push together the clamp spring with a slip-joint pliers and slip the clamp away from the neck. Pull the hose free and drain the remaining coolant. If access is difficult, a hose clamp pliers saves time and bruised knuckles.3.Hose clamp pliers are available at auto parts stores or online.4.Add coolant, Stir 1 gallon of full-strength (not premixed) coolant and 1 gallon of distilled water together in a clean bucket before adding the mix to the radiator.If you’re way past due for a coolant change and your cooling system is corroded, you should take your car in for a professional flush. The same is true if you’ve mixed different types of coolant in your radiator. But if you’re on schedule for a coolant change and your coolant is free of brown, gunky corrosion (extract a little coolant with a baster to examine it), you can skip the flush procedure and perform a simple drain and refill operation yourself and save money. Here’s how:Start by buying the type of coolant listed in your owner’s manual. If your manual calls for an “extended life” coolant that isn’t available at the auto parts store, buy it from the dealer. Don’t buy a “universal” coolant. Using the wrong coolant can cause premature component failure and void your warranty.Raise and safely support the front end of your car on jack stands. Place a large drain pan under the radiator and remove the radiator cap. If your radiator doesn’t have a cap, remove the pressure cap from the coolant tank. Then open the drain cock and drain the radiator.Drain cocks come in several different styles—screw threads, quarter-turn twist, and quarter turn and pull. Plastic drain cocks become brittle with age and can break easily, especially if you try to unscrew a quarter-turn twist style. So, buy a replacement drain cock at the auto parts store before you begin the job (they only cost a few dollars; return it if you don’t need it).Then remove the lower radiator hose clamp and hose from the engine to drain the rest of the coolant. Use a slip-joint pliers to remove spring-style clamps. If you have trouble accessing or releasing the clamps with a pliers, buy a hose clamp pliers (see photo). Reconnect and clamp the radiator hose and reinstall the drain cock after draining.How to Put Coolant in a CarFollow the coolant manufacturer’s directions for diluting concentrated coolant. Mix the coolant and water thoroughly in a clean bucket. To prevent mineral deposits on internal engine and radiator surfaces, always use distilled water—never tap water. Leave the car raised while you refill the radiator to reduce the possibility of air pockets forming in the engine.Slowly fill the radiator or coolant tank with fresh coolant until the coolant is 1 in. below the neck of the radiator or a few inches below the full mark on the coolant tank. Start the engine and let it run. After the engine warms, you’ll see the coolant level quickly drop in the radiator/coolant tank. That means the thermostat has opened and it’s time to add more coolant to bring the level to the top of the radiator, or to the “HOT” mark on the coolant tank. Check your owner’s manual or service manual to see if your car requires a special air bleeding procedure. Check for leaks, shut off the engine, install the cap, lower the car and go for a spin.CAUTION! Used coolant is toxic waste. Pour it into a screw-cap plastic container and drop it off at a recycling center. Sweet-tasting coolant is irresistible to pets—and poisonous. Just a small amount can be deadly. So soak up any spills with paper towels or rags immediately if you have pets wandering around.Draining and refilling coolant in newer carsChanging your coolant yourself, including buying the air-powered refill tool, will save about $50 on your very first coolant change, and about $100 on each one after that. This procedure works for any cooling system that’s not contaminated with rust or oil. We’ll show you how to check yours and then how to change the coolant.Here’s what you need to change coolant:New coolant (2 gallons)Air-powered refill tool Air compressorHose removal tool Shop manual to locate block drain plugsDrain panAbsorbent paper towelsWrenches and screwdriversStart by checking the condition of your coolant when the engine is cool. Remove the radiator or coolant reservoir cap and examine the coolant color. If it looks rusty (don’t confuse orange coolant with rust), has crud or oil floating on the top, or looks like chocolate milk, call it quits and take it to a pro. You have problems that this procedure won’t solve.If the coolant looks clean, start the job by jacking up the vehicle and supporting it with jack stands. Next, place a large drain pan under the radiator. Loosen the lower radiator hose clamp with pliers (springtype clamp) or screwdriver (worm-drive clamp) and remove the hose (Remove the lower hose.Slip the pointed end of the removal tool all the way into the end of the hose. Then pull it around the radiator neck to break the hose loose. Pull it off quickly and immediately direct the coolant into the drain pan.). If the hose won’t budge, use a hose removal tool to break it loose. Let the radiator and water pump drain completely. Then reattach the lower radiator hose and clamp.Next, locate and remove the block drain plugs (they’re in a different spot on every engine, so refer to a repair manual for the location of yours). Reinstall the block drain plugs and move on to the refilling step.Refilling car with fresh coolant:Insert the air tool into the radiator neck or overflow bottle. Connect the exhaust hose and compressed air line and route the open end of the tool’s exhaust hose into an empty gallon jug or pail. Then open the valve and let the vacuum rise until the needle reaches the edge of the red zone on the gauge. Then fill with coolant (Vacuum-fill the cooling system.Jam the fill tube into the coolant bottle. Then open the valve and let the vacuum suck fresh coolant into the system. Repeat the procedure until the system is full.). The vacuum sucks out any air pockets as it refills the system. When it’s full, just reinstall the radiator or overflow tank caps, remove the jack stands, and go for a spin.
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On the left (A) is a typical flywheel extractor. On the right (B) is a three bolt puller.Special tools are essential for certain jobs on classic motorcycles. One job, in particular, is removing the flywheel from the end of the crankshaft.Typically, the flywheels on motorcycles are held in place by a taper. Both the crankshaft and the flywheel have a machined tapered interface that locks the two components together when a retaining bolt or nut is tightened.To locate a flywheel, a Woodruff key is used. However, it should be noted that the Woodruff key is not intended to stop the flywheel from rotating, but to fix its position for ignition timing purposes.Extractors and PullersRemoving a flywheel from a motorcycle will require the use of an extractor or puller. Many flywheels have a threaded center section for the location of a specific puller (see 'A' in the photograph). Other designs require the use of a bolted plate with a large center bolt that draws the flywheel off as it is tightened (item 'B' in the photograph).Occasionally it is possible to remove a flywheel with a universal extractor such as a three-legged puller. However, small flywheels rarely have sufficient clearance for the legs to pass through.Before the flywheel extractor is located, the retaining center nut or bolt must first be removed. To facilitate the loosening process of the retaining nut, it is necessary to stop the flywheel from rotating. Most manufacturers have a special tool available for this purpose.Note: The temptation to place a large screwdriver (or similar) into the flywheel must be resisted at all costs. The electrical components inside the flywheel will be irreparably damaged by this method.An alternative to a flywheel holding tool when un-tightening the center nut is to use a gloved hand to hold the flywheel while an air powered impact gun is used. However, this method must be approached with caution as the impact gun will try to spin the flywheel.Checking the Thread DirectionBefore attempting to loosen the center nut, the mechanic must ascertain the thread direction; that is, left or right handed threads. Typically, flywheels are designed to rotate in the opposite direction of the threads holding them in place. For instance, a flywheel center nut on the left side of an engine that rotates anti-clockwise when viewed from the left side will have a center nut with standard right-hand threads. (Careful examination of the threads will indicate whether they are left or right handed).With the center nut loosened, it should be backed off until it is level with the end of the shaft, this will support the shaft when the extractor is engaged.Using a proprietary extractor (A), the mechanic must insert it to the full extent of its outer threads. Before tightening the center bolt, when the bolt is tightened against the shaft, the mechanic should tap the extractors bolt with a hammer. The shock from the hammer will separate the tappers and loosen the flywheel.If the flywheel does not come loose the first time the center bolt is tapped, the process should be repeated; for example re-tighten the center bolt, tap with a hammer and so on until the flywheel becomes loose.Seized FlywheelsOccasionally a flywheel will be seized to the crankshaft. This seized condition is due to the flywheel becoming loose at some time and shearing off the Woodruff key. Should the mechanic encounter this problem he may find it necessary to take the components to a specialist engineering or auto-engineering shop to have the flywheel removed. However, he should first check the availability of the components as machining may well destroy them.Before replacing the flywheel it is good practice to lap in the surfaces. This can be accomplished by removing the Woodruff key (ensure there are no high spots around the key's location hole), applying a small amount of fine valve lapping compound and rotating the flywheel on the shaft. Both items must be thoroughly cleaned after this process to remove any dirt or swarf.Replacing the flywheel is simply a case of locating the Woodruff key (leading edge down), and carefully pressing it onto the shaft. With the flywheel located, the center nut should be hand tightened. Next, the flywheel can be tapped onto its tapper with an oversize socket and a dead blow hammer (a lead hammer is ideal for this job). Finally, the center nut must be tightened to its recommended torque.
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Tools to Change Brake Padsgather your socket set, torque wrench and screwdrivers, along with a drill and wire wheel, an 8-in. brake pads rewind tools, a small spool of mechanic’s wire, 2 ft. of 1/4-in. vinyl tubing and a jar to hold the brake fluid that bleeds out as you compress the caliper piston.StartStart by loosening (not removing!) the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Raise one side of the vehicle with a floor jack or spare-tire jack. Then place a jack stand under the engine cradle for added safety. Then remove the tire and proceed with changing brake pads.Remove the wheel. Then loosen the caliper retaining bolts with a socket and ratchet (Photo 1). Next, loosen the caliper bleeder screw and lightly reseat it. You’ll loosen it again when you retract the caliper piston. Then lift the caliper off the rotor and set it on top of the caliper bracket.Remove the caliperLoosen the caliper bolt heads with a ratchet. Then remove and store the rubber cap on the bleeder screw (if equipped) and loosen the bleeder screw with a box-end wrench. Reseat the bleeder screw and remove the caliper bolts.Remove the caliper, retract the pistonConnect one end of the drain tube to the bleeder screw and place the other end in a catch jar. Then open the bleeder and force the caliper piston back into the bore with the brake pads tools(Photo 2). When you’re done, tighten the bleeder and disconnect the drain tube. Secure the caliper to the coil spring or strut with mechanic’s wire while you complete the brake job. Never let the caliper dangle by its hose.Retract the caliper piston.Place the inboard pad against the piston and center the brake pads tool on the pad. Locate the clamp screw on the back side of the caliper. Open the bleeder and retract the pistonNext, remove the caliper bracket so you can replace the rotor. The caliper bracket bolts are quite large and are usually coated with thread locker. So you’ll need a large ratchet or breaker bar or an impact wrench to remove them (Photo 3).Unbolt the caliper bracket.Break the caliper bracket bolts loose with an impact wrench or a breaker bar. Store the bolts and lift the bracket off the steering knuckle.As you remove the bolts, note whether they’ve been coated with red or blue thread locker. Recoat the threads with the same type when you reinstall them.Remove the rotorMany carmakers secure the rotor to the hub with a screw, and it rarely comes out without a fight. So assume it’s rusted in place and soak it with spray rust penetrant before you try to remove it. Otherwise you can strip the head, and you’ll be forced to drill it out. Let the penetrant work for about 15 minutes. Then remove the screw (Photo 4) and pull the rotor off the hub.Remove the rotor hold-down screw.Smack the rotor hold-down screw with a hammer to shock it. Then insert a Phillips or star socket. If the screw doesn’t loosen, try tightening. Rock the socket back and forth until it comes out. Then wiggle the rotor to remove it from the hub.It’s all about cleanBrake noise, vibration, harsh braking and brake pedal pulsation are the most common brake complaints, and they’re all caused by improper cleaning and installation procedures. So trust us on this point and follow all of our cleaning and greasing instructions on how to change brake pads.Clean off the rust.Toss the old anti-rattle clips (see Photo 1). Remove all traces of surface rust in the pad slide areas using a wire brush or a drill with a wire wheel. Coat the areas with a light film of brake grease. Install new anti-rattle clips.Remove the old anti-rattle clips and toss them (they can’t be reused). Then clean all the rust off the caliper bracket (Photo 5). Next, clean the caliper bolts with aerosol brake cleaner and check for corrosion. Replace the bolts if they’re corroded. Install new anti-rattle clips (Photo 6). Then grease the bolts and install new rubber boots (Photo 7).Add the hardware.Apply a very light coat of high-temperature synthetic brake grease to the caliper bracket. Then snap in the new anti-rattle clips.Lube and install new boots.Apply a coat of high-temperature synthetic brake grease to the bolt and the bores in the caliper bracket. Seat new boots into the caliper bracket and slide in the greased caliper bolts until the boots seat on the bolt recess.Then clean all the rust and debris from the wheel hub. All it takes is .003 in. of rust or crud on the hub to cause brake pedal pulsation and ruin a perfectly good brake job. So take this part seriously. Chuck a mildly abrasive polishing pad into your drill and clean the wheel hub (Photo 8). Polish the hub.Spin the polishing pad around the face of the wheel hub. Then clean the rust off the center of the hub. Wipe off the debris and apply a light coat of nickel anti-seize to the face to minimize future rust buildup. (Don’t get antiseize on the wheel studs.)Next, clean the new rotors. Use aerosol brake cleaner to remove the rust preventive coating. Then perform the second cleaning step shown here (Photo 9). It’s a pain, but skipping this step can also ruin your brake job.Wash the rotor.Dunk the rotor into a tub of hot soapy water and scrub the entire surface with a stiff brush. Rinse with clear water and dry with paper towels.ReassembleSlide the rotor onto the hub, aligning the rotor retention screw hole with the threaded hole in the hub. Tighten the screw to specs. Next, apply the correct thread locker to the caliper bracket bolts and reinstall the caliper bracket. Apply a thin film of brake grease to the back side of the noise reduction shims, slide them into the caliper bracket and install the springs (Photo 10). Reinstall the caliper..Add the springs.Slide the pads into the anti-rattle clips. Squeeze the pads together as you install the drag reduction springs. Make sure they go back in the same way they came out. Continue squeezing the pads and slide the caliper over the pads.Install the wheel, torque the lug nuts, and test the brakesNow that you’ve followed all the cleaning and greasing tips, don’t wreck your work by using an impact wrench or ratchet to tighten the lug nuts. They must be tightened to the same torque to maintain the critical rotor-to-hub fit (Photo 11). If they’re torqued unevenly, the rotor will cock slightly and you’ll get pedal pulsation. Torque the lug nuts.Remove the jack stand and lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground. Set the torque wrench to one-half the specified torque and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Then set the wrench to the full torque and tighten again in the same star pattern. Lower the vehicle the rest of the way and remove the floor jack.
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Special Tools Used In Brake Service
the specific tools designed to be used when replacing brake components and servicing your brake system. Having the right tools BEFORE you start working on your vehicle makes these types of jobs quick, easy, and doable for the home mechanic. It also prevents having to put things back together before the job is finished because a tool needs to be purchased.Owning the right brake service tools and doing the job yourself will save you hundreds of dollars by sparing you a visit to the repair shop – and much more over the course of a lifetime of brake work.Because the actual process of replacing brake components may require vehicle-specific tools in some instances, we recommend checking with your manufacturer or consulting a repair guide for any how-to questions.
Getting The Wheels Of The Vehicle Off The Ground
After loosening (but not removing) wheel lug nuts or lug bolts, the first few steps in the process involve getting the front or rear of your vehicle off the ground and secured in place. Because it's essential to replace left- and right-side pads and rotors in pairs for the front or rear, you'll want to have at least two jack stands so that the entire front or rear of the car can remain elevated safely as long as necessary.A good vehicle jack makes the lifting process easy, and there are even combination jack stands with built-in hydraulic jacking ability if you prefer. Wheel chocks for whatever wheels are staying on the ground will play a vital role in preventing the vehicle from rolling as you wriggle components loose. A wheeled creeper provides maximum comfort to slide around on when reaching for tools, and strong grease remover will make removal of old, caked-on gunk easy.Removal Of Calipers From Mounting BracketsA good set of wrench sockets and open-ended wrenches is essential for breaking the bolts loose that secure your caliper to its mounting bracket. Once the caliper is unbolted, using a wire hanger or plastic zip ties to hang the caliper and support its weight properly will prevent stress and damage to the flexible brake hoses. Some calipers may require a hex-head (also known as "Allen head") socket or Torx head socket to remove the bolts.After pulling the old brake pads out of the caliper, a caliper piston reset tool will make it easy to compress pistons back into their housings to provide clearance for new brake pads. Depending on vehicle application, some caliper pistons may need to be rotated (or "rewound") back into the caliper housing – a specially designed universal adapter piece will make that process easy. Should you own more than one vehicle, you can consider a kit which offers adapters in multiple sizes.
Disc Brake Pads And RotorsOnce caliper pistons have been compressed, you're ready to put your new brake pads into place. Before doing so, clean the pins that the caliper slides on, then apply fresh brake parts lubricant. To quell brake pad vibrations and resultant noise, coat the back side of the brake pads with the caliper lubricant as well. Be sure to NOT get any of this lubricant on the friction surfaces of the pads or rotors!If you'll be replacing brake rotors, removal of a small bolt or bolts that secure the rotor to the wheel hub is sometimes required. As with removal of calipers, an Allen Head (or hex) socket or Torx head socket may be necessary on some vehicles.
Brake Fluid BleedingIf you've opened up the brake's hydraulic system to replace a disc brake caliper or master cylinder, or simply want to follow your manufacturer's brake fluid maintenance recommendation, you'll need to flush out the old fluid and replace it with new fluid by bleeding the entire system. If you'll be bleeding brakes with the help of someone else to step on the pedal, a simple brake bleeding kit with some rubber elbow fittings, a bleeder tube, and a bottle for the old fluid being discharged will make the process mess-free.
If you'll be bleeding the brakes by yourself, you have a number of options, including a clever one-way hose which allows brake fluid out but stops air from re-entering. Either way, a specially shaped brake bleeder wrench makes it easy to open and close bleeder valves on each caliper. Some examples we offer are the OEM Tools One Person Brake Bleeder Kit, CTA One Man Brake Bleeder Kit, and the Powerbuilt One-Man Brake Bleeder Master Kit just to name a few. If you really want to work like a pro, consider investing in the Symtech Brake Flush Assistant – a power-operated machine that creates a constant level of desired pressure in the brake system, allowing a single user to flush and bleed an entire brake system in less than 15 minutes.
Drum BrakesWhen you find it's time to replace your drum brake shoes, brake drums, or parking brake components, CARiD has the parts AND tools you'll need to perform the job yourself. Once the drum is removed, a T-handle brake shoe spring removal tool for American vehicles with big springs will make easy work of getting the shoes off. One hook grabs the spring as another arm of the tool wedges it off. Some import cars with smaller hold-down clips on the brake shoes may benefit from a compact, circular-ended brake clip tool.
When you're ready to adjust the clearance between the brake shoes and drum, a starwheel adjuster spoon will allow you to rotate the starwheel adjuster on the drum brake assembly through a hole in the backing plate. We also offer universal drum brake repair kits that include the spoon along with a selection of retaining spring tools and return spring tools. If you are rebuilding your drum brake wheel cylinders (a must if new replacements are not available), a brake hone tool makes the process easy when attached to a drill.
When you're ready to adjust the clearance between the brake shoes and drum, a starwheel adjuster spoon will allow you to rotate the starwheel adjuster on the drum brake assembly through a hole in the backing plate. We also offer universal drum brake repair kits that include brake caliper tools,brake piston tools, brake Oil Extractor,brake spring compressor
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If you’re shopping for a new vehicle, you may come across the term CVT Transmission. What does this term mean? And more pointedly, is it something you should buy – or something you should avoid? What is CVT? CVT stands for continuously variable transmission, which is different from a conventional automatic transmission. The standard automatic features a complex series of gears that transmit the power of the engine to the wheels. The CVT, on the other hand, doesn’t have any gears. It features a pair of pulleys of variable width, connected by a belt. One pulley is connected to the engine, the other to the wheels. Because their width is variable, it changes depending on how much power the car needs, hence the term “continuously variable transmission”. The CVT also works a little differently from a conventional transmission. To a certain extent, you do operate it more or less normally—sliding the shift lever from Park into Drive, then zooming off! From there, though, the CVT gets a little bit more complex. You see, with ordinary automatics, there are a set number of gears—so, for instance, you may see a vehicle marked as a “6-speed automatic.” Each of these gears accommodates a certain speed range, so as you start driving faster, the car may automatically shift from first gear into second, and maybe then on to the third.With a continuously variable transmission, though, you do not have all these gears. Actually, you just have one. Unlike the individual gears in an ordinary automatic, this gear can handle all speeds. That’s why they call it variable. CVT Transmission vs. Automatic There are several differences between the automatic and continuously variable transmission, apart from the basic functionality of each. Some are more obvious than others. For instance, when you’re driving a vehicle with CVT, you won’t notice or “feel” gears shifting. You’ll just notice the car getting faster or slower. In that sense, it might make for a smoother ride. The unusual thing is that it essentially chooses the ideal speed for any given situation and holds it constant—even if you’re accelerating the car. Say, for instance, you try to speed up to pass another car. When you slam on the gas, the car will immediately zoom to a nice, brisk speed – but then, it will hold steady at that speed, even as you continue to apply pressure to the gas pedal. So that feeling you get in an ordinary automatic, where you climb through the gears, just isn’t there. Another difference you may notice, when driving a vehicle like this, is an easier take off. Since there are no gears in a CVT transmission, your vehicle will find it easier to get to the ideal torque ratio and maintain it. This means it will almost effortless for the car to take off from a stoplight, as well as easier to climb even on difficult terrain. Needless to say, driving a vehicle like this is a unique experience, and it’s becoming more and more popular with some auto manufacturers. Many automakers use CVTs because it can get maximum power out of a small engine, therefore delivering a quicker, more reactive acceleration. This is also the reason why vehicles with four-cylinder engines are often the ones with CVTs. Cars with continuously variable transmission Because cars with a continuously variable transmission and ones equipped with a standard automatic look the same, you may not be able to tell the difference when car shopping. But here are the car makes and models that most often use CVT transmissions: Mitsubishi, Nissan & Subaru – these car manufacturers often use continuously variable transmission not just for their regular models, but also for their SUVs.Honda & Toyota – with over a dozen models that feature a CVT transmission, these two Japanese automakers are also on the rise.European manufacturers – although CVTs are more common among Japanese brands. Some European car manufacturers also started adopting it for a few of their models, including Mercedes-Benz A-Class and B-Class, as well as Renault Koleos and Megane. If you’d like to know what type of transmission a car has before buying it, it’s easy to do for new vehicles, as this is usually printed on the window sticker, but you can also find it on the manufacturer’s website or printed brochure. If you’re buying a used car, then further research may be required, but typing the make, model and year in a search browser should do the trick. CVT Transmission Problems But before actually buying a car with this type of transmission, you might want to look into the CVT transmission reliability. Is this the best kind of transmission for your next vehicle? Certainly, there are some advantages: This kind tends to get slightly better gas mileage, especially in city driving. Fuel efficiency is a great advantage of CVTs because they can adjust gear ratios instantaneously. They also have an infinite range. Estimates place an average sedan with CVT transmission at 38 miles per gallon. You’ll also find this type of transmission in most hybrids.The power delivered is simple and straightforward. The ride itself tends to be smooth; you never feel the gears shifting, because, well, they don’t! But there are also drawbacks, the most common complaint of some drivers being that a continuous variable transmission doesn’t allow for quite as much speed. Also, some drivers prefer the escalating gear shifts to the steady hum of this new technology. Other CVT transmission problems include: OverheatingSudden loss of accelerationSlipping, jerking & shuddering Excessive wear and stretching of the beltDroning soundCost of repair and maintenance Ultimately, it’s up to you—but we do recommend that you drive a CVT transmission before you purchase one! FAQs Q: Is CVT better than automatic transmission? A: CVT transmission has its pros and cons, but the choice ultimately depends on you. A continuously variable transmission has better fuel consumption and produces fewer emissions, as well as delivering a smoother ride. However, a standard automatic transmission is better for speed and control. Q: How long will a CVT transmission last? A: If you take good care of your CVT, this type of transmission can last more than five years. Its improved performance is also due to the fact that it’s still sort of new technology, therefore car manufacturers have been working to improve it. Q: How do you know if your CVT transmission is bad? A: There are several warning signs of CVT transmission problems, such as oil leak marks on your parking spot, vibration, burning smell, transmission slips or delayed drive. Q: How much does it cost to replace a CVT transmission? A: One of the drawbacks of continuously variable transmissions is the high cost associated. Of course, this will depend on your type of car and the underlying problem.
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Rotate TiresOn many cars it is very simple to rotate tires. You just remove them and move them to the appropriate spot (front to back, back to front), then re-install them.In the last few years however this have become a much more difficult job. Most cars these days have what is called a "Tire Pressure Monitoring System" or TPMS. There are also a lot of "all wheel drive" cars on the road. These two things make rotating your cars tires more difficult. It can still be done, but you need much more info and, in some cases, specialized equipment in order to do this job.What is TMPS and How Does it Work?The primary reason that it is becoming harder to rotate tires is because of what is called TPMS or Tire Pressure Monitoring System. This system does just what its name suggests. It monitors the pressure in your tires to be sure that they are properly inflated giving you increased tire life and better gas mileage. It can also alert you if you are about to lose tire pressure while driving.What's the big deal you ask? Well the "problem" with these systems is that each tire must have a sensor inside of it that can tell the computer how much pressure is in it. This would not normally pose a problem, but each of these sensors are "marked" by the computer so the cars computer knows which tire is which.This means that the computer knows the difference between the right front tire and the right rear tire.When "Joe Carowner" goes to rotate their tires the computer can no longer tell which tire is which and it will turn on a light on in the instrument panel. This light will not go out until it is reset.How to Reset TPMS LightMost TPMS sensors have to be reset using a scan tool whenever the tires are rotated and some of them even have to be reset even when you are just putting air in the tire.Starting in 2008 the government requires that car manufacturers use this system on their cars. This means that your car has this system if it was made after 2008. Many cars that were made before this date have this system so be sure to check your owners manual before you try to do anything related to your tires.You can buy a scan tool that will re set this system at most any auto parts store or you can take your vehicle to your local mechanic to have it done. Some auto part stores can reset them as well. To troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. For this I personally use and recommend ALLDATAdiy. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals. Click here for a sample of their diagnostic and repair information. Should You Rotate Tires Yourself?If you have a scan tool that can reset TPMS codes or if your vehicle is not equipped with this system then you can do this job fairly easily. You will need to have a floor jack, jack stands and a basic set of hand tools, including a torque wrench. Then you simply put the tire that is on the front right on the back left and the tire that is on the back left goes on the front right. Then the same for the other side.I would say that if you have an older vehicle (2000 and older) then yes, you should be able to do this job fairly easily. If you have a newer car that does not have a TPMS system, also yes, but if it does have this system, then I would leave it to a professional.If you really want to do this job yourself then I recommend taking your car to a shop that has a TPMS scan tool so they can reset the sensors. You can also buy a TPMS reset tool for your car that would work as well. Some of these tools have a learning curve so be sure that you have read the instructions and feel comfortable before you try it yourself.If you still have any unresolved vehicle problems or questions, you can ask an auto mechanic online. For expert answers specific to your vehicle's make and model, I recommend JustAnswer Car. They have a large pool of certified mechanics to answer your questions for a small fee and you can also browse their answers to other users for free.
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What does P0401 code mean? Find what causes it and learn how to fix this check engine code from a mechanic who has done it countless times.This trouble code "insufficient EGR flow" means that there is not enough exhaust gasses flowing back into the incoming air to the engine. EGR stands for "exhaust gas recirculation". The EGR system consist of three parts: EGR valve, DPFE (differential pressure sensor EGR) and actuator solenoid.Car manufacturers created this system so already burned exhaust gas can flow back into the engine (when the EGR valve is open) and lower the combustion temperatures. This helps reduce emissions.This OBD code basically means that the cars computer has tried to open the EGR valve, but it cannot get enough exhaust gas into the engine. EGR systems used to be controlled by engine vacuum via hoses and valves. Now most of them are controlled by electrical solenoids.What Causes the P0401 Code?EGR ValveBlocked EGR PassagewaysEGR Control (No or Low Vacuum)Faulty solenoid or wiringLess Common CausesThe Cars ComputerDPFE (Delta Pressure Feedback EGR) ValveModulator ValveTo troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. For this I personally use and recommend ALLDATAdiy. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals. Click here for a sample of their diagnostic and repair information. How to Fix Engine Code P0401Each car manufacturer has their own EGR system design but the most likely two causes of this code are the valve itself or passageways (many times the intake manifold will have very small passageways that get clogged with soot) that the exhaust gasses pass through.Many times this code is caused by clogged EGR passages, and sometimes removing the sensor will give you access to the clogged EGR passages.Another thing that you can do yourself is to check all vacuum hoses and all wiring going to the EGR valve. You might find a hose with a hole in it or you could find a connector that is not seated all the way or some wiring that has been rubbed through.This fault code is a tougher one for a DIY mechanic to diagnose unless you have good experience and some specialized tools. Many times this code will go away if you replace the EGR valve (but not always). If you lack the skills or patience to diagnose this problem, you can consider giving it a shot and just replace the EGR valve.If you still have any unresolved vehicle problems or questions, you can ask an auto mechanic online. For expert answers specific to your vehicle's make and model, I recommend JustAnswer Car. They have a large pool of certified mechanics to answer your questions for a small fee and you can also browse their answers to other users for free.
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