All FAQ
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An AC clutch engages and disengages the compressor when your car's air conditioning is turned on and off. Once an electrical current from the on/off switch sends power to the magnetic coil, it causes the outboard clutch to pull in toward the compressor, locking up the pulley and engaging the compressor. Because the clutch is attached to the compressor shaft, if it becomes disengaged, it will not move the compressor shaft. So how to Repair the AC Clutch by our product of 17pcs universal clutch aligning tool set ?A few steps will help you remedy this problem.Step 1Remove the air conditioning accessory belt with the proper size wrench in your wrench set. Disconnect the connector on your compressor's magnetic coil. Use the right size socket to remove the 6 mm bolt in the center of the AC clutch.Step 2Pull the clutch off, and observe the spacers on the shaft behind it. They are used to gap the clutch properly, so keep them in a safe place to avoid losing them. Remove the snap-ring on the shaft that secures the pulley, and slide this off the shaft.Step 3Clean the shaft and other parts thoroughly before installation. Insert the new pulley, and engage the snap-ring with the beveled edge facing outward.Step 4Install one spacer on the compressor shaft, then install the clutch, and fasten the 6 mm bolt securely.Step 5Place the feeler gauge between the clutch and the pulley to ensure proper clearance. If the clearance is not correct, remove the clutch plate and add another spacer.Check the air gap to ensure the clutch will engage properly. If the air gap and/or clearance are not accurate, your clutch might wear out more quickly. Adjoin the connector to the electromagnetic coil.
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A bearing separator comes in handy when replacing the steering pump, rebuilding your alternator or performing any other similar repair job in your car or any other piece of equipment. A bearing separator is very effective in removing bearings, pulleys, gears and bushes fitted too close to the housing or other components, leaving regular jaw pullers no chance to do their job. Save on repair costs and finish your repair job in your garage using a few tools along with a bearing separator.Use Your SeparatorStep 1Unscrew the two large bolts on each side of the bearing separator -- holding the separator split plate together -- just enough so the part you want to remove fits right in the middle of the separator plate. Use a wrench, if necessary.Step 2Place the bearing separator over and behind the bearing, gear or pulley you want to remove, with each half of the separator plate on each side. If the separator plate does not fit right behind the part you want to pull because the space is too tight, line the center, tapered edge of the split plate as close to the bottom of the part as possible.Step 3Tighten the two bearing-separator bolts with a wrench so the separator plates fit tight behind, or close to the bottom of, the part you want to remove. You want the plates to be tight enough around the part to get a good grip, but not too tight to prevent damage to any component.Step 4Screw the twin, steel beam over the bearing separator using a wrench. The twin beam comes with your bearing separator kit and has two large bolts on each side and another large bolt on the center of the beam. You want to screw the two side bolts on the beam to the two threaded holes provided on the separator plate.Step 5Begin to screw the beam's center screw by hand until the race on the tip of this screw rests on the shaft where the bearing, gear or pulley you want to remove is mounted on.Step 6Start to tighten the beam's center screw with a wrench, making sure the bearing separator plates are holding tight on the part you want to remove. As you tighten the beam's center screw, the bearing separator plates will begin to pull on the part you want to remove.Keep tightening the beam's center screw until you release the bearing, gear or pulley off the mounting center shaft. Or, if you prefer, you can remove the bearing separator once there is enough room behind the part you want to remove for the puller legs of a jaw puller to finish removing the part.Have you learned how to use it?
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What Causes a P0300 Code?Low Fuel PressureVacuum LeakEGR system malfunctionInternal Engine Problems (such as low compression)Less Common CausesFaulty CoilFaulty Spark Plugs and/or WiresCamshaft or Crankshaft sensorsIgnition moduleComputerTo troubleshoot, repair and maintain your vehicle, you'll need diagnostic and repair information that is specific to your car or truck. For this I personally use and recommend ALLDATAdiy. With full manuals for over 30,000 vehicles online, you will find an exact match for your vehicle's year, make and model.Besides being cheaper than a factory manual, they also offer step by step repair instructions and detailed diagrams beyond what is found in most printed manuals.How to Fix Fault Code P0300This code is one of the most common codes ever. If you notice that your check engine light is on you should have it checked for this code. If it is flashing then it is almost certainly this one or one like it such as P0301, P0302, etc. These are codes that show which cylinder the misfire is located in.The first thing I would do if the problem wasn't obvious by inspection is a full tune up. Many times this will fix this code. If you want to do more diagnosis so you don't just throw parts at it you will need to check each of the above items starting with the top four.The two most useful tests for diagnosing this code are a fuel pressure test and cylinder leak down test.Testing your vehicle fuel pressure is simple - All you need is a good product.A cylinder leakdown test is a little harder to do for the backyard mechanic because you need a source of compressed air. If you have that though, you can just go buy a cheap goods. This tool simply puts shop air into the cylinders when they are at top-dead-center (they should be sealed at this point). If there is leakage at this point then you will have a low compression problem.If you don't know how to check the items in the list above, you should take your car to a good auto repair shop. It probably will not (in most cases) cost too much for them to repair this problem. You car will run better, have more power and get better fuel mileage if you get the P0300 code repaired. It will also not be causing other problems by driving it like this.
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If the driver’s experience with automatics and manuals is quite different, what’s happening under the hood is largely the same. Both types work to allow your engine to operate within a narrow range of speeds while allowing the car itself to experience numerous output speeds.In both types of cars, gears are used to leverage the engine’s torque and allow that engine to keep whirring along at a reasonable speed. The end result is that drivers can operate their cars at varying speeds and accelerations without having to worry about the engine burning up.But how do automatics and manuals actually differ on a technical level?The big difference is that a manual will lock and unlock different gears to produce needed gear ratios. With an automatic, the same set of gears produces all the necessary gear ratios—thus, no need for gear shifting. The Key Components To make all of this happen, the automatic relies on a few key components. Some of these components to know about are: The planetary gear sets, which provide all forward and reverse gear sets.The hydraulic system, which uses a special transmission fluid to control the planetary gear sets.The torque converter, which basically serves as the clutch, letting a gear stop while the engine keeps running.The governor and the modulator, which determine speed and throttle and signal for gear shifts when needed.
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Auto Air Conditioning TroubleshootingBefore you start air conditioning troubleshooting you need to realize that it is not as easy as you might think. There are many things that can go wrong when trying to fix your AC system yourself.Probably the most common problem that people run into when attempting DIY A/C repairs is that they get dirt and other debris in the system and/or they don't put the correct amount of freon in the ac system.When the system is not flushed of all debris and old oil, it will never cool right. If there is too much or not enough refrigerant then it will also never cool how it should and it could even pose a danger. Modern air conditioning systems MUST be clean and have the correct amount of freon in them in order for them to cool properly. Here's more information that will help you sort it out air con troubleshooting...How Your AC System WorksIt is a very little known fact that a fully functional air conditioning unit does NOT run out of Freon. Freon (R-134a or R-12 in older systems) is pumped through the AC system by the compressor.The compressor compresses the gas and pushes it into the condenser. The condenser causes the gas to turn into a liquid. This high pressure liquid has now lost a lot of heat and is ready to take in heat from the interior of the car. It is pushed through a drier which keeps the liquid dry, then it goes to an expansion valve (there are other names for this device but they work in a similar manner).The expansion valve pushes the liquid through a very small opening thus creating small droplets of refrigerant that is then pushed through the evaporator. In the evaporator the liquid refrigerant (R-134a) changes from a liquid to a gas. In this process it takes in large amounts of heat and thus the air is cooled.The low pressure gas is sucked into the compressor. This process is repeated, using the same gas over and over. Nothing comes in and nothing comes out. The water that you see leaking from the car on a hot day when you have been pumping the AC is due to condensation on the cold bits and does not come from within the unit. Just like water droplets gathering on the outside of a cold glass of juice.To put it another way, the gas is not used up, so it continues to do what it does, as long as it stays inside your car’s air conditioning system. The fridge in your kitchen works on the same principle as your auto AC and how many times have you heard of someone refilling their fridge with Freon?Air Conditioning Problems in CarsAir Conditioner LeaksLeaks are, as I mentioned, not the only possible culprit. Simplistically put, you may require air conditioning repair when the mechanical or electrical bits break. The bits include things called evaporator coils, compressors, electric motors, condensers, belts and pulleys. Like all electrical and mechanical things, they can wear down and break.Air Conditioning EvaporatorEvaporator coils are generally not worth repairing. The cost of reconditioning one of these tends to exceed the cost of replacing one with a new part. A new part will last longer in any case.A/C CompressorCompressors can be repaired, depending what the problem is. If you just have a problem with a compressor clutch then it can sometimes be replaced. This is becoming less common as companies are opting to manufacture compressors that do not have serviceable clutches.Most of the time you will just have to replace the compressor. These are not cheap. Including labor, you are probably in for anywhere from $100 to $1000.A/C Belts and PulleysYou may know what a belt or a pulley is. Your engine probably uses several of them. As the engine works, it drives not only the wheels, but other components such as your alternator and power steering.Ever noticed how the wheels are impossible to turn when the car is off? Your engine is connected to these other things by a pulley system. A pulley is a wheel which has either has teeth or grooves on it. The engine turns a pulley. A belt, which is a very strong rubbery thing, fits into the grooves of the engine pulley and in turn drives the air con’s pulley.Fairly simple. Belts and pulley’s wear out and need to be replaced. Replacing them seems easier than it is unless you have the right tools. In order for them to work properly, they need to be under the correct tension. Something called a tensioner, does just that. Your mechanic can replace the AC pulley quickly and if you have the right tools you can do it fairly quickly as well.If you decide to replace your AC belt yourself then be sure you have a serpentine belt diagram. There is usually one located on the hood or somewhere in the engine compartment, but if you can't find it then you need to get a repair manual that has one. No matter how much you think you remember how it goes, you will forget!I am all for the enthusiast tinkering about or those with tight purse strings doing some DIY to save a few dollars. Most of the time auto air conditioning troubleshooting is not worth the effort or the money to risk doing yourself. One exception to this is if you are diagnosing an electrical problem in your AC system. As long as you are not messing with the Freon you can probably do some of the diagnostics yourself.DIY or Take It to a Mechanic?A leak is not the only possible problem with auto air conditioning. Before I move on to other possibilities let me be clear: go to your mechanic. You are not going to fix the leak yourself. Air conditioning troubleshooting is not an easy DIY job.I would not start squirting dye I bought at the corner store into the air conditioning system to find a leak. The dye used by the professionals is proven not to damage anything. That being said you can find tracer dye at any good auto parts store. However, you have to get this dye into a pressurized ac system. You can get a kit at auto parts stores and even Wal-mart has the fitting to put it into the air conditioner.The problem though, is that you don't know what you are putting in with these kits. If you put it in then have to take your car to a repair shop they would not touch it because they would have to use a machine that would suck it into their refrigerant bottle and if they don't know what it is they certainly won't put it into their stock (as this would contaminate their whole bottle).You almost certainly don’t have the equipment do this safely and it is not worth buying the equipment unless you are planning to open an air conditioning troubleshooting shop. A repair shop will have an AC machine that is used to vacuum out all of the old refrigerant, ac oil, ac dye, etc. It will then be used to put the correct amount of refrigerant, oil and dye back into the system.Kits are available but chances are pretty good that even if you were to find the leak, fixing it is hardly ever straight forward. Every time you get it wrong, you are going to pay to refill the gas and then try again. I doubt very much that you will source the parts for less than an auto repair shop, who buy parts in bulk.You get my point - Air conditioning troubleshooting and repair is best left to a mechanic.If you still have any unresolved vehicle problems or questions, you can ask an auto mechanic online. For expert answers specific to your vehicle's make and model, I recommend JustAnswer Car. They have a large pool of certified mechanics to answer your questions for a small fee and you can also browse their answers to other users for free.Air Conditioning RipoffsWhat then, begs the question, do those fellows do, who promise air con refilling at a fraction of the cost?In my opinion, they take your money and claim to be doing air conditioning troubleshooting and repair. In exchange, they do put more gas in your car and then they hope that the leak in your AC is small enough that you won’t bother them again for a good while. When it eventually runs out, you go back like a good customer and give them more money.However if the leak is significant, they will send you away. They will say that you need to go to your mechanic or AC specialist because the issue is not the gas. It never was. The loss of gas was just the symptom. The kicker is that once the problem is repaired, you will have to pay to have the system regassed again. They probably don't even know how to do air conditioning troubleshooting.Only on rare occasions, is the cause for loss of the Freon a temporary one, in which case, I would be wrong about a quick refill sorting the problem but I am willing to bet that my gloomy prediction is almost always right.How to Make Your AC System LastTo make your auto AC last longer, you should minimize the wear and tear. In other words avoid using it, unless you have to. If you do use it, close the windows and turn the air recycling on. This way, the AC does not have to work as hard to keep cooling the incoming hot air and more importantly does not stop and start continuously.If you live in a cold climate try to remember to run the AC every month or so. There is oil in your air conditioning lines and when the AC is off it does not circulate. It is good to circulate it every once in a while to keep the seals inside these lines lubricated. This will help your AC system to not leak. Air conditioning troubleshooting is a challenge for most car owners and better left to professionals.
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Filter replacement is a big part of auto maintenance and not something that vehicle owners should neglect. Although it is important, it can be hard to know how often air and oil filters should be changed. You definitely don’t want to ignore them, but you shouldn’t be replacing them more often than necessary either.Maintaining Your Engine’s Air FilterHow often should the engine air filter be replaced? In short, whenever it gets too dirty. Over time, the air filter will collect dirt, dust and debris. Eventually, it simply becomes too filthy to function. But with proper maintenance, the filter should be replaced before that happens.Air filters are a crucial vehicle component because they help protect the engine. They collect all that debris to prevent it from getting into the engine itself and causing real damage or impede optimal functioning. When the filters get too dirty themselves, that’s when the debris starts getting into the engine.If you neglect the air filter, the filter can all but disintegrate. This can lead to all kinds of corrosive particles getting into the engine and can actually shorten the lifespan of the engine dramatically. Filter replacement is a small maintenance cost that prevents far worse damage down the road.It is hard to arrive at a single answer when it comes to the question of how often to replace the air filter. It varies depending on make, model and how often you drive the vehicle. With that said, here are some pointers:First, consult the owner’s manual to see if it provides any indication.As a rule of thumb, 30,000 miles is about how far you should drive before replacing the filter.It is often easiest to simply get the air filter changed every time you take the vehicle in for a routine oil change, tire rotation, etc. Make it a regular part of your preventative maintenance.Maintaining Your Oil FilterAnother filter to keep in mind is the oil filter. Again, it’s impossible to say exactly how often you need to have it changed, as it varies depending on the condition of the vehicle. Simply having the filter changed any time you have an oil change is the simplest rule of thumb.This is another important step to take in order to protect your engine and prevent potential maintenance issues down the road. Filters are easy to forget about, but they really should be a part of your routine auto maintenance plan.
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1. Wait for Your Car Engine to Cool DownFinding a spark plug that fits your vehicle is simple. What I do is go to the spark plugs and enter my vehicle year, make and model into their "filter by vehicle" search.If you skip this step, you might find it impossible to remove the spark plugs from your engine without ruining the threads. This is especially true for aluminium cylinder heads. While it is possible to repair a misthreaded spark plug hole, but it is difficult and should be left to a professional.2. Blow Out Debris Around Spark PlugsBlow off any dust, dirt or debris around and near the spark plug with a compressed air duster The last thing you'll want is foreign particles falling DIRECTLY into your engine and possibly causing premature engine wear.3. Make Sure Spark Plugs are Screwed in StraightIf spark plugs go in crooked, they can cross thread and you will have a problem. To make sure my spark plugs are screwed in straight, I like to wiggle them a bit as I'm inserting them in. If you notice the spark plug getting tight right at the beginning... then stop, take it out and restarting the screwing process.4. Change Spark Plugs One at a TimeIt is VERY easy to get the wires all mixed up, so just play it safe and do them one by one. If you have a car with a coil-on-plug system then this is not as much of a worry. Also, most all newer cars make it hard to put parts in the wrong place, but you have to be more careful with most older cars.Tools Needed for Spark Plug ReplacementChanging spark plugs is a simple job which just requires a few basic tools. As mentioned above, use a compressed air duster to blow off dirt and debris around the cylinders before spark plug replacement. You should also have a spark park gap tool in case you need to adjust the gap between the electrodes.It is a socket with a rubber insert to keep the spark plug from breaking during installation and removal.If you have a coil-on-plug system, then you will probably need either a small socket wrench or a screwdriver as most of them will be bolted on.
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One component of the hydraulic braking system’s drum brakes is the rear wheel cylinder. It has two internal pistons on each side extending from the inside of the cylinder when working the braking system. The piston will come in contact with the horns of the brake shoe and will be pushed outward to contact the inside of the diameter of the drum so that the vehicle can come into a stop, thus pressing on the brakes. If the quality of the brakes is compromised due to a leak, you do not have to remove the brake shoe nor its hardware. But, if the cylinder is blown out and has contaminated the rear brake shoe, this is the time to replace it. Cleaning will simply not fix the problem.Step 1 - Loosen Lug NutsDepending on which rear cylinder wheel you are replacing, this is where you loosen the lugs by turning it about a quarter of the way.Wheel Hub puller DNTStep 2 - Block the VehicleUse anything that can stop the car from rolling out of place while you are working on it or it can cause fatal accidents. Using a jack, place it under the car’s rear frame and lift the car. You can know completely remove the lug nuts from the tires.Step 3 – LubricateWith penetrating lubricant, spray the brake line connection that goes to the wheel cylinder. Take a drain pan and place it under so that you can collect any leaks from the area.Step 4 - Take off the DrumIf it is necessary, take out the rubber plug from behind the backing plate and do some readjustments to the brakes using a thin-bladed screwdriver and a brake spoon. This will make removal of the drum much easier.Step 5 - Break Brake Fitting from Wheel CylinderUse a line wrench and do it carefully. The lubricant you have placed will help the brake fitting move about around the steel brake line. If this part is stuck you can easily break this part by applying more penetrating fluid but remember that if you do this, it has to be replaced. As soon as the brake fitting is free, use a wrench to remove it. The pan should still be underneath to collect any of the brake fluid.Step 6 - Disconnect Upper BrakeUse the end of brake shoe pliers to remove from the seated retainer. Contaminated retainer should be disassembled using a brake shoe spring tool. If the brake shoes won’t be replaced, the two upper brake shoe return springs must be removed.Step 7 - Remove Retaining BoltsThese are the parts that hold the wheel cylinder in place. Now you can remove the wheel cylinder. As soon as this part is removed simply replace it with the new replacement cylinder you have purchased. Make sure it is the same model. Simply reverse the procedure of removing it. You can now bleed it by loosening the bleed screw. As soon as the flow is steady and air has passed, you can close it.Step 8 - Check Fluid LevelThe master cylinder will tell you if you need to add more fluid due to the prior leaking. Add more if necessary to level it off, and close it well.Step 9 - Test Brake with AssistantHave someone push on the pedal a few times and then push down. Open the bleeder screw on the master cylinder until fluid is pushed out from the screw. Repeat step until the brakes feel normal both in height and firmness. Never let the master cylinder become dry, and top it off with brake fluid after you do the tests.
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Rear brake shoes are often used in today's cars and light trucks more than disc brakes are used for rear brakes. But, like disc brakes, they can become worn and lose their effectiveness in slowing or stopping the car they are installed on. When this happens, these shoes—or linings—need to be replaced. If you are accustomed to doing some of the more simple maintenance on your car or truck you may want to know how to install new brake shoes to replace those that are worn and ineffective. With the right tools and instructions you should be able to install new shoes on a brake in less than half an hour.Step 1 – Safety PreparationsRaise your car's rear end by using a car jack. When you have it raised high enough, slip a jack stand under the frame on both sides of the car. Then lower the car again until its weight is resting on these jack stands.Step 2 – Remove the Rear WheelsBefore raising your car's rear end, crack loose each of the lug nuts holding the car's wheels in place. Then, when your car is raised and is resting on the jack stands, remove the wheels lug nuts and wheels, and move the wheels away from the car. When you have your wheels off, set your car's parking brake as an extra safety precaution.Step 3 – Remove the Brake DrumsTurn keeper bolts on your drums in a counter clockwise direction. These bolts are intended to hold the drums in place. When they are removed, pull the drums toward you. They should slip off easily, leaving the brake shoes fully exposed to view. With these drums removed, examine them for scoring or cracks. Examine the wheel cylinder for leaks that might indicate other worn brake parts.Step 4 – Remove Brake ShoesUsing a flathead screwdriver or brake tool, pry springs from the hooks that hold them to the shoes. Then, turn the center spring bolt, and remove the shoe from the axle.Step 5 – Attach New ShoesPress the new shoes onto the brake where they will naturally fit in only one direction. While holding the shoe in place, tighten the spring bolt, then fasten the long springs onto their hooks on each shoe. This will hold the shoes in place.Step 6 – Replace the Drum and Bleed the BrakesSlip the drum over the shoes and tighten its keeper bolt. Turn the bleeder nipple, which will open and allow fluid and air to bleed out. When only fluid begins to drain out, close the nipple and top off the fluid in the master cylinder.Step 7 – Complete the ProcessRepeat the shoe changing process with the other rear brake. When finished, test the brakes, make necessary adjustments, then replace the wheels with the lug nuts turned onto the wheel. Finally, lower the car, snug up the lug nuts and remove the floor jacks.
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As you drive your car, the wheels and tires come intact with varying types of terrain, including speed bumps, rough patches, potholes and over highway hazards. The up and down motion from this can be highly disruptive to your driving experience but fortunately, modern automobiles are outfitted with springs, which absorb much of this motion and keep your ride as smooth as possible.These springs are vital to your vehicle’s suspension. As such, if you are doing any kind of work on your suspension, it pays to know how these springs work. It's worth noting that there are different types of springs found within suspensions.Take a moment to familiarize yourself with these four classes of springs—coil springs, leaf springs, coil over springs, and lowering springs.Coil SpringsCoil springs are the easiest to visualize. They look basically like the typical coiled/spherical springs you’ve seen elsewhere. You’ll find coiled springs most often in older cars and in heavier trucks, specifically on the front suspension between the upper and lower control arms. These springs can carry some really heavy loads, but they don’t necessarily provide the smoothest ride quality, which is why you won’t find them as often in newer, smaller vehicles.Leaf SpringsHere’s another type of spring that you’re most often going to find primarily in trucks and in older vehicles. These springs actually look like long strips of metal, bowed to allow some rebound. Depending on the load size the vehicle is meant to carry, these springs may be layered. They are found mostly toward the rear of the vehicle, and, again, offer a ride with a fair amount of bounce to it, hence their not being as common in newer or smaller vehicles.Coil Over SpringsSitting over a strut carriage, the coiled over spring is probably the best way to get a great performance but also good ride quality. This is highly advanced spring technology, and you’ll find it at the front of almost every new car; for performance vehicles, you’ll find a coil over spring at the front and the back. You may even get a specialty wrench with your vehicle, making it easy to adjust your coil over spring.Lowered SpringsFinally, we come to some aftermarket spring options. The lowering spring lowers the vehicle’s center of gravity and alters the spring rate. These changes can enhance the vehicle’s performance, but can also compromise the quality of the ride and make for a truly difficult and bouncy driving experience. You’ll definitely want to speak with a suspension expert before you make this aftermarket change to your vehicle.Of course, as with any part of your vehicle, your springs may occasionally require some maintenance. If you notice any problems with your ride quality, make sure to take your vehicle in for an inspection by a suspension care expert.
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