Basic Steps in Casting Process

Basic Steps in Casting Process While each casting method creates unique challenges and process enhancements, all techniques retain the same basic steps. These steps are:● Patternmaking● Coremaking● Molding● Melting and pouring● Finishing● PatternmakingTo create a casting mold, a manufacturer must first design a physical model. The process of fabricating this model is called patternmaking. Using computer-assisted design (CAD) systems, the manufacturer designs dimensions and geometry of a mold, and then packs an aggregate material, such as sand, concrete or plastic, around the pattern. Once the pattern is removed, the mold cavity in the sand can be filled.CoremakingMany part designs require the inclusion of cores in the casting mold. Cores are solid materials placed inside the mold cavity to create interior surfaces of a casting. For example, a metal pipefitting will require a cylindrical core inside the mold cavity to create the hollow construction of the component's interior.MoldingAt this point, the manufacturer can create the casting mold. A material such as sand, plaster or wax is used in expendable mold casting, whereas metal and other durable materials are used in non-expendable mold casting techniques. The material fills the casting mold model and is allowed to harden, at which point the manufacturer removes it from the cavity and the casting of the component can now begin.Melting and PouringMetal must be properly melted prior to being placed in the mold. Typically, this is done by using what is known as a crucible. Crucibles are containers made of porcelain or another melt-resistance substance in which a manufacturer can heat a metal beyond its melting point. Once properly melted, the molten metal is poured into the casting mold to cool and harden.FinishingBecause metal can sometimes fill in cracks in a casting mold or sprues, the pouring channel for the mold, manufacturers must often finish the metal following casting. This can be accomplished through a variety of finishing techniques, including sanding, grinding and buffing. Once proper appearance and surface texture has been achieved, further post-treatment processes such as painting or electroplating may be necessary for some applications.

Maintenace and instructions of hydraulic ram

Maintenace and instructions of hydraulic ram How to repair hydraulic ram (1) First of all, open the box to check if all parts are available, then, fetch the hydraulic ram, please use your left hand to take ram and use your fingers of right hand to turn slowly in order to check if the ram ring is stretched out. If ram ring is stretched out about 1/2 inch (15mm), means ram ring is normal and useful. But if the length which ram ring stretch out is not enough or ram ring not-stretch out, means the oil-seal of ram is not enough, then we shall maintenance it according to the following steps. (2) Steps of maintenance when oil for oil-seal of ram is not enough: a. First, turn the T-handle (1) left to fetch out, make terminal of ram contact with atmospheric pressure outside, from balance between the pressure inside and outside the ram. Please refer to drawing 1. b. Then, use circular clip to clip circular part of ram cover (2) which is on the side of cover, turn cover (2) in order to make screw backward, then fetch out ram cover (2) and take ram ring (3) and spring (4) in order. Please refer to drawing 2. c. Then, fetch out plastic seal (5), now you must take care that you have to take plastic seal (5) according to the following method slowly: The method is to extend T-type screw handle (6) form side of ram, order to make T-type screw handle (6) parallel with ram and turn into plastic seal (5) straightly about 2mm depth (the depth can't be too long in order to prevent from damage of plastic seal (5)), then pull out T-type screw handle (6) parallel with ram, fetch out plastic seal (5) from ram slowly, now you must prevent damage of plastic seal (5). Then, spread greasy lubricating oil (bearing oil) around ram. You just have to spread 0,020kg bearing oil only. d. After you have spreader bearing oil around ram, you must check if the directions of plastic seal (5) and plastic seal (7) are right before assembly, that is, grooves of plastic seal (5) and plastic seal (7) are opposite. Please refer to drawing 1, check if groove of plastic seal (5) toward inside before assembly, that make plastic seal (5) with better oil-seal function.  Sometimes lack of oil leak out occur, it is not during to damage of hydraulic gear puller, it's because changeable weather, for example, bearing oil will when temperature is very high. So if you find bearing oil is not enough, you just only have to add some bearing oil, then you can go on using. Please don't have to worry about it. If bearing oil enough, hydraulic gear puller can work forever.

Different Types of Casting and the Casting Process-DNT-Reliable tool manufacturer from China

Different Types of Casting and the Casting Process  Although casting is one of the oldest known manufacturing techniques, modern advances in casting technology have led to a broad array of specialized casting methods. Hot forming processes, such as die-casting, investment casting, plaster casting, and sand casting, each provide their own unique manufacturing benefits. Comparing both the advantages and disadvantages of the common types of casting processes can help in selecting the method best suited for a given production run.Sand CastingSand casting typically relies on silica-based materials, such as synthetic or naturally-bonded sand. Casting sand generally consists of finely ground, spherical grains that can be tightly packed together into a smooth molding surface. The casting is designed to reduce the potential for tearing, cracking, or other flaws by allowing a moderate degree of flexibility and shrinkage during the cooling phase of the process. The sand can also be strengthened with the addition of clay, which helps the particles bond more closely. Automotive products such as engine blocks are manufactured through sand casting.Sand casting involves several steps, including patternmaking, molding, melting and pouring, and cleaning. The pattern is the form around which the sand is packed, usually in two parts, the cope and the drag. After the sand is compacted enough to replicate the pattern, the cope is removed and the pattern extracted. Then, any additional inserts called core boxes are installed and the cope is replaced. After the metal has been poured and solidified, the casting is removed, trimmed of the risers and gates that were used in the pouring process, and cleaned of any adhered sand and scale. Sand casting's main advantages as a casting process include:● Relatively inexpensive production costs, especially in low-volume runs.● The ability to fabricate large components.● A capacity for casting both ferrous and non-ferrous materials.● A low cost for post-casting tooling.Despite its benefits, sand casting yields a lower degree of accuracy than do alternate methods and it can be difficult to sand cast components with a predetermined size and weight specifications. Furthermore, this process has a tendency to yield products with a comparatively rough surface finish.Investment CastingInvestment, or lost-wax, casting uses a disposable wax pattern for each cast part. The wax is injected directly into a mold, removed, then coated with refractory material and a binding agent, usually in several stages to build up a thick shell. Multiple patterns are assembled onto common sprues. Once the shells have hardened the patterns are inverted and heated in ovens to remove the wax. Molten metal is then poured into the remaining shells where it hardens into the shape of the wax patterns. The refractory shell is broken away to reveal the completed casting. Investment casting is often used to manufacture parts for the automotive, power generation, and aerospace industries, such as turbine blades. Some of the central advantages and disadvantages of investment casting include:● A high degree of accuracy and precise dimensional results.● The ability to create thin-walled parts with complex geometries.● The capacity for casting both ferrous and non-ferrous materials.● Relatively high-quality surface finish and detail in final components.Although it is highly precise, investment casting is usually more expensive than other comparable casting techniques and is typically only cost-efficient when sand or plaster castings cannot be used. However, the expense can sometimes be compensated for with reduced machining and tooling costs due to investment castings’ quality surface results.Plaster CastingPlaster casting is similar to the sand casting process, using a mixture of gypsum, strengthening compound, and water in place of the sand. The plaster pattern is typically coated with an anti-adhesive compound to prevent it from becoming stuck against the mold, and the plaster is capable of filling in any gaps around the mold. Once the plaster material has been used to cast the part, it usually cracks or forms defects, requiring it to be replaced with fresh material. The advantages offered by plaster casting include:● A very smooth surface finish.● The ability to cast complex shapes with thin walls.● The capacity for forming large parts with less expense than other processes, such as investment casting.● A higher degree of dimensional accuracy than that of sand casting.This process tends to be more expensive than most sand casting operations and may require frequent replacements of the plaster molding material. It is usually more effective and cost-efficient when the quality of the surface finish is an important requirement. Its application is generally limited to casting aluminum and copper-based alloys.Die Casting (Metal Casting Process)Die casting is a method of molding materials under high pressure and usually involves non-ferrous metals and alloys, such as zinc, tin, copper, and aluminum. The reusable mold is coated with a lubricant to help regulate the die’s temperature and to assist with component ejection. Molten metal is then injected into the die under high pressure, which remains continuous until the workpiece solidifies. This pressurized insertion is rapid, preventing any segment of the material from hardening before being cast..After the process is completed, the component is taken out of the die and any scrap material is removed. A few of the major advantages provided by die casting include:● Close size and shape tolerances.● High component dimensional consistency and uniform design.● A reduced need for post-casting machining.Despite its advantages, die casting as a metal casting process has relatively high tool costs, making it more cost-efficient in high-volume product runs. It can also be difficult to ensure the mechanical properties of a die-cast component, meaning these products usually do not function as structural parts. As the molds are typically two-piece, die casting is limited to products that can be removed from the mold without destroying the mold, as is done in other casting processes.Centrifugal CastingCentrifugal casting is used to produce long, cylindrical parts such as cast iron pipe by relying on the g-forces developed in a spinning mold. Molten metal introduced into the mold is flung against the interior surface of the mold, producing a casting that can be free of voids. Originally invented as the de Lavaud process using water-cooled molds, the method is applied to symmetrical parts such as soil pipe and large gun barrels and has the advantage of producing parts using a minimal number of risers. For asymmetric parts that cannot be spun around their own axes, a variant of centrifugal casting, called pressure casting, arranges several parts around a common sprue and spins the molds around this axis. A similar idea is applied to the casting of very large gear rings, etc. Depending on the material being cast, metal or sand molds may be used.Permanent Mold CastingPermanent mold casting shares similarities with die casting and centrifugal casting, notably the use of reusable molds. These can be made of steel, graphite, etc. and are generally used to cast materials such as lead, zinc, aluminum and magnesium alloys, certain bronzes, and cast iron. It is a low-pressure process with pouring usually done by hand using multiple molds on a turntable. As the molds rotate through the various stations they are successively coated, closed, filled, opened, and emptied. One such method is known as slush casting, where the mold is filled but emptied before the metal fully hardens. Molten metal is dumped from the casting to produce a hollow, cast shell. A similar idea is used in the molding of hollow chocolate products such as Easter bunnies. The use of metal molds induces faster heat transfer through the mold, allowing the shell to harden while the core remains liquid.

what's Casting technology

Casting technology Casting technology is a forming process for the production of metallic products. It is one of the most economic measures for the production of complex geometrical component geometries of all kinds.The forming of parts and semi-finished products occurs through melting and subsequent cooling of metal in a mold, together with the corresponding chemical composition. Various plants make different casting technologies for the relevant final products possible. The term casting technology includes numerous production methods for metallic products, which are cast into a mold and mainly completed through mechanical machining. Casting technology describes the part production, which takes place through the casting of liquefied metal through heat into an appropriate mold and which therefore belongs to the so called forming processes.Different types of castings and casting technologiesCast parts are produced through different casting procedures and casting technologies. We have the fully automated production process through moulding machines, as well as manual production processes, for example the hand-moulded process, with less mechanical processing steps but a subsequent mechanical and shape-cutting finishing for especially precise shapes and final dimensions. The decision for the optimum casting technology is based on the customized material and the application area of the cast parts. Through various heat treatment processes, metals of various grades and mechanical properties can be produced. For cast blocks of particularly pure metal, a remelting process through ESU-electrodes or DETEM-plant is made after the regular block casting, in order to remove or rather disperse undesired elements via their slag-bonding.

Why should I replace my shocks?

Replacing the shocks or struts in your car is often a game changed.  These suspension components wear out slowly as your put miles on your car so as the owner we’re often not even aware of how bad things have gotten.  Shock manufacturers recommend replacing your shocks or struts every 60,000 miles.  since you’ve probably got more miles than that in your shocks you might wonder why you should replace them so often. Why should I replace my shocks?Replace your shocks before they are completely blown has a little to do with ride quality but a lot to do with safety.  Poorly functioning shocks and struts can significantly increase your stopping distance as well as the chance of a rollover.  Hopefully, you’ll never have to test this in your car but when you get in a sticky situation you want your vehicle to react how to expect and to perform it’s best to keep you and others safe.how to use a spring compressor?On many vehicles, you may be able to get around it by purchasing loaded struts. If loaded struts aren't available for your vehicle, you’re going to need to use a spring compressor.There are 2 types of spring compressors that accomplish the same task but you have to use the right one for your setup.  One type of spring compressor goes up through the center of the spring and grabs the coils from inside.  This type of compressor is usually used simply to remove the spring on trucks and older cars but you usually don’t need it to change the shocks on that type of vehicle.The other type of spring compressor is 2 identical pieces that go on either side of the spring This type of spring compressor is used when the shock goes up inside the spring either on a strut like this or on a coilover type setup.  it’s very important to compress the spring enough so that it’s loose on the shock before you try to take anything apart.  This is important because there is a ton of stored energy in that sprint when it’s mounted to the shock.  It can take anywhere from 100 to 500 lbs of force per inch to compress one of these springs.  If the spring is allowed to decompress suddenly, like if you remove the shock top nut, it can do a lot of damage and cause significant injury.The biggest tip we can give you is to make sure the fingers of the spring compressor are securely over the coil and you compress the spring evenly.  Your spring should stay looking like a straight cylinder not be curved or bent from being compressed on one side more than another.While talking this job yourself can seem scary it can really save you lots of money.

How to Prevent Bearing Rust?DNT Tools

How to Prevent Bearing Rus Bearing Rust Reason: Bearing rust has relationship to the material and use environment.The bearing steel itself contains carbon and will react with water vapor.If we want to prevent the bearing from rusting, we must do a good job of anti-rust treatment or choose non-steel bearings.Metal products are prone to rust after oxidation, and stainless-steel bearings are no exception.There are many factors that affect its rust: such as the chemical composition and structure of the metal material itself; the surface finish (corrosion of the battery with poor oxygen concentration); the composition and pH value of the solution in contact with the metal surface; and many factors such as the environment in which it is located.Above are the direct factors that make the bearing rusty.In addition, when we use the bearing, do not directly touch objects with your hands, because when sweat contacts the bearing, it will form a layer of sweat film on the bearing surface, which will cause electrochemical effects on the bearing and corrode the bearing. Methods to Prevent Bearing Rust 1. Surface cleaning method:Common surface cleaning methods are solvent cleaning method, chemical treatment cleaning method and mechanical cleaning method.When the surface is dry and clean, it can be dried with filtered dry compressed air, or dried with a dryer at 120~170℃, or dried with clean gauze.2. Method of applying anti-rust oil(1) Soaking method:Some small bearings are immersed in anti-rust grease to make the surface adhere to a layer of anti-rust oil/grease. The thickness of the oil film can be achieved by controlling the temperature or viscosity of the anti-rust grease.(2) Brushing method:This method is suitable for large bearings that are not suitable for immersion or spraying. When brushing, it is necessary to pay attention not to accumulate, but also to prevent leakage.(3) Spray method:Some large bearings cannot be oiled by immersion method. Generally, use filtered compressed air with a pressure of about 0.7Mpa for spraying in a clean air place.

10 Easy Steps to Remove a Rusty Bolt

10 steps to Remove a Rusty BoltRemoving a rusty bolt is simple, but takes some time. No worries—we'll walk you through it We've all come across a nut that, over time, has rusted itself solid to the accompanying bolt. Removing a rusty bolt is tough, but not impossible. With a little patience, any DIY-er can tackle the challenge.One of the most important things to keep in mind as you're working is to resist the temptation of using excessive force. This could cause you to break a blind stud, which could mean hours of drilling out the busted shank. As with all projects, assess the situation and plan carefully using the following tips and tricks. Step 1: Check if the bolt is ready to breakThe first thing you need to do is decide if the bolt is ready to break. Once a bolt yields, (stretched beyond its elastic limit), breaking is imminent. For example, exhaust manifold studs are notorious for corroding the shanks thin as twigs, and are just as easy to break.Is the bolt actually rusted or does it have locking compound? Many factory bolts have thread locker applied. This can be softened with heat.Is the bolt worth saving? A rusted fastener that has lost its tensile strength won't have the necessary clamping force to do its job. It may be easier to just break the bolt and replace it. Smaller fasteners ,such as body bolts and screws, often can't be saved. Use locking pliers on J-nuts so they won't spin and simply break the bolt and discard.Step 2: Remove as much rust as possibleIf the bolt is deemed salvageable, remove as much rust off the threads as possible. A stiff wire brush and a little elbow grease goes a long way toward happy results. Rust should be removed from the root of the thread, all the way to the end, so the nut doesn't gall and seize as it turns.Step 3: Select the proper toolSelect the proper tool. Open-end wrenches are most likely to round off the flats of a stuck nut. A six-point box end is preferable to a 12-point for the same reason. If the nut is smaller due to corrosion, you may get a better fit with the next smaller metric or SAE size. For example, a ½-inch socket (12.7 millimeters) may be a better fit on rusted 13-millimeter nut. Be careful; filing of the flats can fine-tune the fit. Cut the nuts off exhaust fasteners with an abrasive wheel mounted on a die grinder.Step 4: Remember righty-tighty, lefty-looseyAre you turning it the correct way? Most mechanics learn the rhyme "Righty-Tighty, Lefty-Loosey" on day one, but you'd be surprised at how many still get their spatial directions confused when working in a reversed or upside-down position. Note: Most threads are left-hand loosen, but some ring gear bolts, and old '60s Chrysler lug nuts, can be backward.Step 5: Use liquid thread-loosenersOn stuck rusted nuts and bolts that can't be cut or destroyed, some type of liquid thread loosener will be a huge help. There are many different brands to choose from, but in most cases, testing has shown penetrating oil can reduce the torque required to overcome the rust bond by up to half or more. A home-brew concoction of 50 percent Acetone and 50 percent automatic transmission fluid may work well in some cases, but be mindful of the fumes.Step 6: Soak the threadsLiberally soak the threads with penetrating oil. Whatever brand you use, you may need to repeat applications and possibly soak overnight. Remember, patience is key—it can save you hours spent drilling out a broken bolt. Step 7: Get more leverageA breaker bar or long-handled ratchet will give more leverage. Use steady, even pressure, paying close attention to the feel for each turn. If the tension suddenly becomes soft or rubbery, you are either breaking the bolt or stripping the threads. Wear padded mechanic's gloves to reduce skinned knuckles and the number of quarters put in the swearing jar.Step 8: Try using heat—it can be very effectiveIf the nut is bonded to the bolt, you will need more serious techniques. Heat, carefully applied to one side of the nut, can expand it sufficiently to break the rust bond or melt locking compound. Be sure to first clean off all the penetrating oil and only use open flame in areas safe to do so.Many modern cars have extensive amounts of plastic that can melt and catch fire if you are not vigilant. Because your vision is narrow through dark, tinted safety glasses, have a spotter watching for telltale smoke or flames. Fireproof welder's blankets can be used to protect vital parts and paint from flame.I prefer using a very small oxyacetylene tip to concentrate heat in a tight area, but an inexpensive hardware store hand-held propane torch can suffice if you have the room.Step 9: Use paraffin as a lubricantMy favorite trick for removing rusted NPT pipe plugs from cast iron is to heat the surrounding iron, then melt a candle on the threads. Paraffin will wick into the threads and act as a lubricant. Be sure to use a snug-fitting, proper-sized socket. In this example, I used a special female square drive socket that fits the square on the pipe plug.Step 10: Use drastic measures if all else failsA pneumatic or electric impact gun should be the tool of last resort because it often simply breaks the bolt. Use the proper impact socket, and wear gloves and safety glasses. Since these tools can be quite powerful, save them for larger nuts. If possible, use the impact on the nut side and hold the bolt with a wrench.

How do hydraulic nut splitters work?DNT Tools

How do hydraulic nut splitters work? A hydraulic nut splitter works in the same way to split the nut, but instead of a screw forcing the chisel into the nut this action is performed by a hydraulic ram driven by a separate hydraulic compressor. Hydraulic fluid is pumped into the piston barrel at the cap end port, creating a high pressure area behind the piston, while hydraulic fluid is pumped out of the piston barrel at the rod end port, creating a low pressure area in front of the piston. This pressure difference either side of the piston moves the piston forward in the barrel, which pushes the piston rod forward, which in turn pushes the chisel of the  hydraulic nut splitter into the nut. Huge forces can be achieved with hydraulics, which is why they are used on large industrial nut splitters for splitting large nuts.

Are there any alternatives to a nut splitter,how many ways to extractor rust nuts?

Are there any alternatives to a nut splitter,how many ways to extractor rust nuts? There are several tools and techniques for trying to remove a rusted or damaged nut. In most cases these methods will be tried before using a nut splitter – once these other techniques and tools have failed a nut splitter may be the only option left. No.1  Penetrating oil This is often the first thing to be tried on a nut that’s corroded onto a bolt or stud. Spray this onto the nut and it penetrates the corrosion, dirt and grime that is seizing the nut onto the bolt. Penetrating oils also contain lubricants that that reduce the friction between the nut and the bolt’s threads, making it easier to turn the nut. No.2  Heating the nut This technique involves using a blow torch or oxy-acetylene torch to heat one side of the nut, it is often used in automotive workshops. As it is heated the nut expands and so breaks the rust that is holding it tight on the bolt.Once the nut has been heated, remove the torch and apply paraffin wax to the cooler side of the nut. This will cause the wax to melt and be drawn by a capillary action into the threads of the nut and bolt, where it acts as a lubricant. Leave the nut to cool and then try removing it again. This technique can obviously only be used in certain circumstances. No.3  Freezing the bolt This method works on the same principle as heating the nut, but instead causes the bolt to contract, thus breaking the rust that is holding on the nut. Freeze sprays are simply sprayed onto the bolt and as they contain penetration oil as well as a freezing agent, once the rust bond with the nut is broken the penetrating oil can work into the bolt’s threads, making it easier to remove the nut. No.4  Tapping the nut with a punch This is the technique often used on a damaged or rounded nut that can no longer be turned with a socket or spanner. First a small indent is created on the nut’s flat by tapping the punch with a small hammer at a right angle to the nut, into the centre of one of its flats.The punch is then angled over in the indent you have created, so that as it is struck with the hammer it forces the nut to turn slightly in an anti-clockwise direction. The process of creating an indent and forcing the nut to turn slightly may to be repeated several times before the nut can be removed.This technique not only damages the nut so it can not be reused, it requires plenty of access around the nut for you to use the punch and swing a hammer, as well as taking a lot of time. Because of this, if you have a nut splitter available you will often be able to remove the nut with it in less time and with less risk of damaging the item the nut is attached to.

What additional features do nut splitters have?

Most of the additional features available on some nut splitters allow you to fit them on nuts in awkward and confined spaces. Offset handle Some nut splitters have an offset handle which is angled in relation to the frame. This allows the nut splitter to be used in more situations, such as when a nut is on a flat surface which can make turning the screw head of other nut splitters awkward. Self-centering wobble tip This feature allows the anvil of the nut splitter to articulate using a ball and socket joint. By doing this the handle of nut splitter doesn’t need to line up perfectly with the flat of the nut. Instead the self-centering wobble tip will allow the nut to be pinched between its flats with the anvil and chisel kept at right angles to the flats while the handle is slightly angled. In order to keep the chisel and anvil at right angles to the nut’s flats when the handle is not, the chisel cannot be driven by the screw. So instead the chisel and anvil swap sides and the anvil is connected to the screw with the self-centering wobble tip. This can enable nut splitters to be used on nuts in more confined situations where obstructions might prevent you from lining up the chisel of other nut splitters square against the flat of the nut. Double chisel As the name suggests a double chisel nut splitter has two chisels. Only one of the chisels moves when the screw is turned, but this pinches the nut between the two chisels. The two chisels cut into the nut’s flats from opposite sides of the nut. This can speed up the time taken to cut the nut from the bolt or stud. Also the second chisel can cut into the other side of the nut without having to remove and reposition the nut splitter, where its handle may prevent you from positioning it on the nut. Screw-adjustable anvil Screw-adjustable anvils are found on C-frame nut splitters with a hydraulic screw action. As the chisel of these nut splitters does not move a great distance due to the hydraulic ram (see How does a nut splitter work?) the screw adjustable anvil allows the nut splitter to still be used on a wide range of nut sizes, by moving in and out of the C-frame to sandwich the nut up against the chisel. Rotating chisel Rotating chisels are usually seen on C-frame nut splitters. Like the screw-adjustable anvil they are adjusted with a hex key that fits into the hex recess at the end of the threaded shaft connected to the chisel. Because of this they are not connected to the screw and instead switch places with the anvil of the nut splitter. The rotating chisel allows you to use the nut splitter with the C-frame rotated at any angle over the head of the nut, while keeping the chisel square against the flat of the nut. This feature allows these nut splitters to be used in more awkward and confined spaces, such as on the underside of vehicles. Attached chisel and screw As the chisel is pressed into the flat of the nut it can sometimes become wedged in. If this happens, the nut remains firmly attached to the chisel as the screw is wound back. Some manufacturers have designed nut splitters with a chisel that is attached to the screw, so as the screw is wound back it pulls the chisel back away from the nut. The chisel is held in the recess at the end of the screw by a spring clip. A groove runs along the chisel, into which the grub screw fits, preventing the chisel from rotating.

What are the different types of nut splitter?

What are the different types of nut splitter? How many type of Nut Splitter?Nut splitters can have either a screw action or hydraulic action, with a ring-frame or C-frame design.◆ Ring frame nut splitter◆ C-frame nut splitter◆ Hydraulic nut splitter Ring frame nut splitter As the name suggests the frame of a ring-frame nut splitter forms a ring that completely encircles the nut you wish to remove.This type of nut splitter will often lack a flat anvil opposite the chisel, instead using the inside of the ring-frame to pinch the far side of the nut as the chisel is driven into the nut’s flat.As the ring frame fully encircles the nut it is stronger than a C-frame nut splitter. However, this also makes the frame larger and can sometimes prevent the nut splitter from fitting nuts in confined spaces. C-frame nut splitter The C-frame nut splitter looks similar to a G-clamp. As one end of the frame is open and it does not fully encircle the nut it is possible to get a C-frame nut splitter into more confined spaces than a ring-frame one.This nut splitter design usually comes with a rotating chisel that allows you to use it at various angles, which again enables it to access nuts you may not be able to with a ring-frame nut splitter.The rotating chisel is first adjusted with a hex key so that there will be a minimal gap between it the nut and the anvil. Then keeping the chisel square to the nut’s flat the C-frame nut splitter is positioned over the nut, before the screw at the end of handle is turned to press the anvil up against the opposite flat of the nut. This is continued until the chisel splits the nut.However, as the C-frame doesn’t completely encircle the nut it is not as strong as a ring-frame nut splitter. To combat this weaker design, the C-frame is made of thicker material than the ring frames of other nut splitters. Hydraulic nut splitter Hydraulic nut splitters use a hydraulic ram instead of a screw to drive the chisel into the nut’s flat. This enables them to apply far more force to the chisel than can be achieved with a screw.The greater force applied to the chisel along with harder chisel materials allows hydraulic nut splitters to remove larger and harder nuts than is possible with a  screw nut splitter. This type of nut splitter is only found with a ring frame design in order to cope with the force exerted by the ram .Hydraulic nut splitters are powered by a separate hydraulic pump. This pump can itself be powered by hand, electricity, pneumatically (compressed air) or petrol.Hydraulic nut splitters cost considerably more than a screw action or C-frame with hydraulic screw action nut splitter. This means they are rarely used outside of heavy industry and very specialist applications.


WHAT IS A HYDRAULIC NUT SPLITTER? DNT TOOLS It is a tool used to destructively remove an over tightened and/or corroded nut from a stud or bolt - ideally without damaging the thread.Hydraulic nut splitters attach to a hydraulic pump to break apart corroded or frozen nuts to free the bolt.he nut splitter is placed around the nut and a blade is pushed through the nut to cut it free from the bolt. Industrial nut splitter tools are used to break nuts in a variety of applications, including off pipe flanges, machinery, and structures.A hydraulic nut splitter uses a hydraulic cylinder in place of a threaded shaft that must be turned manually. More expensive models use pneumatics or hydraulics to make the process faster and easier.

what's a nut splitter tool?

what's a nut splitter? A nut splitter is a tool used to remove damaged or seized nuts from bolts or threaded studs.Nut splitters are used to break free seized or rusty nuts from vehicles or machinery. Nut splitters are manual hand tools for use with a ratchet wrench, socket or spanner. During application attach your choice of tool to the hexagon stud at the base of the device and then place over the nut. In a clockwise direction turn the stud until it meets the nut. As pressure is applied the stud winds forward and squeezes the nut between the shaft and the cutting blade cracking the nut on one side, you can now remove the nut without damage to bolt threads.Features & BenefitsCutting nuts without damage to bolt threadsUse in difficult to reach locationsCompatible with a range of nut sizesApplicationsNut Splitters are used in mechanical servicing, maintenance, renovations and DIY applications.


Pneumatic Fluid Extractor (DN-G1034) For the extraction and refilling of gearbox/engine oils from motor vehicles,motor bikes,marine engines,generators etc How to Use Check the product before using the toolsmake sure all parts are in place and there are no cracked,broken or loose parts.use the correct air inlet coupler as there are different tyoes in different countriesmake sure the trigger is in the "OFF" postition.make sure the extractor/dispense control knob is in the right position. Warning! Before use you must check that the fluid you intend to use is safe to be dispensed with this type of machinery.DO NOT use with volatile or explosive prodcuts(eg.oetrik/gasonline or there is a significant risk or explosion and personal injury) Extraction 1.Turn the extract knob ④ anti-clockwise to loosen2.Connect the relevant tube onto the inlet/outlet coupler⑥3.Connect the tool to the air supply 4.Push the trigger ① to work (Note:release the trigger when you require the unit to stop workingDispense 1.Turn the fill/extract knob ④ clockwise to tighten2.Connect the relevant tube onto the inlet/outlet coupler⑥ 3.Connect to the air supply and start the process there is a safety valve on the extractor/dispenser4.Push the trigger ① to start the extractor/dispenser5.you can control the fluid extraction speed by adjusting the control valve ball valve when using tube ⑧