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With more and more truck models, engines are becoming more and more "sophisticated", which requires truck drivers to strengthen daily maintenance, extend the life of the engine, and reduce use failures. This issue of DNT editor brings you the precautions for the maintenance of Sinotruk D10B diesel engines.Operation precautions:For the safety and comfort of driving, be sure to perform daily inspections on each component of the diesel engine before use. If any abnormality is found, you can go to the maintenance service station for repair.Before starting the diesel engine, check whether the oil level, coolant level, etc. meet the requirements to ensure safety.When starting the diesel engine, if it fails to start within 5 seconds, it should be restarted after 15 seconds. After starting the diesel engine, it should run at idle speed for 2 to 3 minutes, and the oil pressure should be higher than 100kPa. When the coolant temperature is not higher than 60℃, do not suddenly run at high speed and high load, otherwise it will affect the reliability of the diesel engine. Before stopping a loaded diesel engine, the engine must be deloaded and slowed down, and the idling time must be no less than 5 minutes. During the running-in period (3000km), the diesel engine should only be operated under medium load.

Carbon steel is often used as the material for large vehicle maintenance tools, mainly because it has many advantages in terms of performance, cost, and processability, and is particularly suitable for heavy-duty maintenance scenarios that bear large loads and large torques. The following are the specific reasons:1. High strength and good rigidity Carbon steel has good mechanical strength and rigidity, and can withstand the impact force and high-strength torque commonly seen in large vehicle maintenance, preventing deformation or breakage. 2. Strong wear resistance During the maintenance process, tools often come into contact and rub against metal parts. Carbon steel, especially medium carbon steel and high carbon steel, have strong wear resistance after heat treatment (such as quenching and tempering), which prolongs the life of the tool. 3. Easy to process and shape Carbon steel has good machinability and is easy to carry out: Forging (such as wrenches and sockets) Turning and milling (such as maintenance tools) Heat treatment and surface treatment (such as chrome plating, blackening, etc.) 4. Excellent heat treatment performance Carbon steel can obtain the required hardness and toughness after quenching and tempering, and adapt to different working conditions. 5. Low cost and easy to obtain Compared with alloy steel, stainless steel and other materials, carbon steel is cheaper and more widely available, which is conducive to controlling manufacturing costs, and is particularly suitable for low-end or mass production. 6. Various surface treatments are available Although carbon steel itself has average corrosion resistance, it can be treated with nickel plating, chrome plating, blackening, phosphating and other surface treatments to improve its appearance and rust resistance, taking into account both function and aesthetics.

Nowadays, the weather is cold and windy in winter. If people don't take good care of their bodies, they will have problems. Not to mention the car outside in the wind, sun and cold weather, oil leakage is also very common. The following editor will share with you the reasons for the crankshaft rear oil seal leakage. Let's take a look~① The crankshaft oil seal did not use non-petroleum-based lubricants during the press-fitting process, which caused the oil seal to loosen or even fall off after the engine was used for a period of time (for example, some engine manufacturers use engine oil instead of relatively expensive non-petroleum-based lubricants to reduce manufacturing costs).② The parallelism of the rear oil seal press-fitting surface to the rear oil seal seat mounting surface did not meet the technical requirements of the assembly drawing, causing the rear oil seal lip to be unevenly stressed and deformed. After the engine was used for a period of time, the oil seal lip was deformed or even the entire oil seal was twisted, causing the oil seal to be damaged and leak oil.③ The engine has been in use for a long time, and the rear oil seal has naturally aged and cracks have occurred at the lip, causing oil leakage.Although the oil seal is small, it has a great responsibility. Once the oil leaks, the engine may lack oil and wear, and the leaking oil may also have certain hidden dangers, so check it frequently. How to install the crankshaft oil seal?①First, use 2 M12*1.5*40mm hexagon socket bolts to fix the guide shaft to the front section of the engine crankshaft, and tighten it with a hexagon socket wrench;②Then install the crankshaft front oil seal on the guide shaft, and the guide shaft plays a guiding role;③Install the pressure plate on the guide shaft, and use a movable wrench to turn the nut so that the pressure plate presses the oil seal into place;④Remove the special maintenance tool, and the crankshaft front oil seal is installed.If you are interested in this aspect, you can contact us at any time

Operate and use the transmission correctly and reasonably, and perform regular maintenance. DNT editor has extracted some maintenance methods from the Fast transmission repair tool manual for your reference:1. Check the oil level position. The oil level should be flush with the lower edge of the oil level observation hole and should not be 5mm lower than the lower edge of the oil level observation hole. Too much oil filling will cause the transmission temperature to rise and oil leakage; too little oil filling will cause poor lubrication of parts, and in severe cases, a burning accident will occur.2. Oil change cycle. The lubricant must be replaced when the new transmission travels 2000~5000km. The oil level and leakage of the lubricant should be checked every 10000km, and it should be replenished at any time. The lubricant should be replaced every 50000~80000km.3. Working temperature. The temperature of the transmission during continuous operation shall not exceed 120℃, and the temperature shall not be lower than -40℃. When the working temperature exceeds 120℃, the lubricant will decompose and shorten the life of the transmission.4. Working inclination angle When the working inclination angle of the transmission exceeds 12°, the lubrication may not be sufficient. A lubricating oil pump or cooling device can be installed to ensure good lubrication.In case of a failure, don't try any treatment to save some money, which may easily cause more serious failures. It is better to find a regular service station or repair shop, because there are special repair tools for gearbox repair. Take our Fast gearbox special repair tools as an example: Fast gearbox repair tools This set of Fast gearbox is specially designed and produced for Fast. It is made of international standard steel and processed with humanized design concepts. It has high strength and can be used twice as many times as ordinary steel without damage. This is the advantage of materials.At present, there are many repair shops equipped with this set of Fast gearbox repair tools, and they are exported to other countries. If you are also interested in DNT's special repair tools for large vehicles, please contact us.

How to install the crankshaft oil sealEngine oil leakage is a common automobile fault. Generally, when it comes to oil leakage, car owners will think that there is a problem with the seal, mostly the oil seal is broken. Here is how to install the crankshaft oil seal①First, use 3 M14*1.5*90mm hexagon socket bolts to fix the guide shaft to the front section of the engine crankshaft, and tighten it with a hexagon socket wrench;②Then install the crankshaft rear oil seal on the guide shaft, and the guide shaft plays a guiding role;③Install the pressure plate on the guide shaft, and use a movable wrench to turn the nut so that the pressure plate presses the oil seal into place;④Remove the special maintenance tool, and the crankshaft rear oil seal is installed.If you are interested in this aspect, you can contact us at any time.

Engine oil leakage will cause great waste. In severe cases, it may cause the crankshaft to lock, which will pose a great safety hazard to the life and property of the vehicle and the driver. Therefore, we would like to remind the maintenance masters that when the engine oil leakage is found, they must use the DNT oil seal installation tool to repair it in time. It can also be solved by themselves.The DNT oil seal installation tool is used to install the engine oil seal. It is composed of a support seat, a guide rod, a positioning pin and a press-fit sleeve. It is suitable for the maintenance of various models of engines. The Tanaka oil seal installation tool refuses to affect the life of the engine due to oil leakage of the oil seal. Using the Tanaka oil seal installation tool can help the majority of maintenance masters solve the oil leakage problem caused by the improper installation of the oil seal.Instructions for quick installation of the DNT oil seal installation tool:1) Use the plastic guide pin of the new oil seal to position the oil seal on the front end of the crankshaft and lubricate the outer diameter of the oil seal to prevent tearing during installation.2) Install the oil seal into the front gear chamber. This tool is installed above the oil seal. Use a plastic hammer to evenly hit the tool at 90-degree intervals. When it is flush with the end face of the flywheel housing, until the oil seal is fully inserted, the oil seal can be installed to the appropriate depth.The DNT oil seal installation tool has a simple structure and is easy to use. It will not damage the accessories during the installation of the oil seal. At the same time, it greatly shortens the working hours and improves efficiency. If you are interested in the above oil seal installation tools or have any questions, please contact us on the official website

Fast Gearbox Repair Tool Manual - Common Faults and Troubleshooting: Overheating of the Transmission.The long-term operating temperature of the transmission should not exceed 120°C. If this temperature is exceeded, the lubricating oil will deteriorate and the life of the transmission will be affected.Due to the friction of the moving parts, the transmission will generate a certain amount of heat. The normal operating temperature is about 38°C higher than the ambient temperature. The heat is dissipated through the transmission housing. If the heat dissipation is not normal, it will cause overheating.Before looking for the cause of overheating, the oil temperature gauge and oil temperature sensor must be checked to ensure that the reading of the oil temperature gauge is correct.Generally, overheating is caused by the following reasons:1) Improper lubrication. The oil level is too low or too high, the oil grade is wrong, or the transmission working angle exceeds 12°.2) The driving speed is usually below 32Km/h.3) The engine speed is too high;4) The airflow around the transmission is blocked because the transmission is surrounded by the frame, floor, fuel tank and installed between the large bumper assembly;5) The engine exhaust system is too close to the transmission;6) The ambient temperature is too high;7) Overloading and speeding.

Because of commercial vehicle gross-weight and axle-weight regulations, drivers will occasionally need to reposition the 5th wheel or the trailer axles for proper weight distribution. This video explains how to slide the 5th wheel and the trailer axles safely and without damaging the equipment. After taking on a load, especially a heavy load, it’s advisable to axle-weigh the truck if possible before beginning the trip. Overweight fines are expensive and go against the fleet’s safety record. If, after axle-weighing the truck, you discover the drive axles are 800 pounds overweight, but the steer axle is still below its legal limit, you will need to shift that weight forward to the steer axle by sliding the 5th wheel forward. Generally, weight will transfer at about 100 pounds per inch. In this example, you will have to slide the fifth wheel forward about eight inches. If, after axle-weighing the truck, you discover the drive axles are 800 pounds overweight, but the steer axle is still below its legal limit, you will need to shift that weight forward to the steer axle by sliding the 5th wheel forward. Generally, weight will transfer at about 100 pounds per inch. In this example, you will have to slide the fifth wheel forward about eight inches.Where to lower the landing gearTo ease the strain on the driveline, you’ll need to lower the trailer landing gear to support the weight. Look for solid even ground upon which to lower the landing gear, then place wheel chocks around the trailer wheels. Crank the landing gear down to about two inches from the ground, then climb into the cab and deflate the tractor air suspension. The landing gear will settle to the ground, taking the weight off the tractor frame. As the suspension deflates, unlock the 5th wheel slider lock, then exit the cab to verify the locks have released, and to ensure the tractor is not dangling from the trailer king pin. With the weight off the 5th wheel, it should slide easily.It will help if you mark two spots on the ground as a reference for how far the 5th wheel needs to move. In this case, we placed a pair of gloves on the ground beside the tires as guides. Back in the cab, place the transmission in reverse, as in this case you’ll be sliding the 5th wheel forward. Release the tractor parking brakes and gently apply some throttle. After sliding the appropriate distance, set the tractor brake and exit the cab to verify the 5th wheel is now in the correct position. If the move was successful, re-enter the cab and re-engage the 5th wheel slide locking mechanism. Release the parking brakes and place the transmission in drive or reverse. Gently rock the truck back and forth to seat the slider locks.Verify the slider locks have engaged, then re-inflate the tractor suspension.As the suspension is inflating, set the tractor parking brakes. Exit the cab and crank up the landing gear and fetch the wheel chocks from the trailer. Before releasing the trailer parking brakes, do one more tug test to ensure the slider locks are fully engaged.How to slide a trailer bogeyNext, we’ll look at sliding the trailer bogeys.As with the 5th wheel, repositioning the trailer axles can help with weight distribution. If the trailer axles are overweight, sliding them back can transfer weight to the drive axles. Conversely, if the drive axles are overweight and the weight cannot be transferred to the steer axle, sliding the trailer bogeys forward can take some weight off the drive axles.Unfortunately, there’s no way to take the weight off the trailer axles before sliding them, as we could with the 5th wheel by lowering the landing gear. It’s advisable to check before loading the trailer that the trailer axles are in the proper position — that is, no more than 41 feet or 12.5 meters behind the trailer king pin — and that the trailer-axle slider locks are working and the axles can slideMost trailers have an air-activated release for the locking mechanism, and usually, the trailer parking brake must be set for the locks to disengage. Also, the trailer air suspension may deflate when the parking brakes are set. When the trailer is loaded, the locking pins usually will not disengage when you flip the switch. To disengage the pins, you may have to rock the tractor back and forth with the trailer brakes set.As with the 5th wheel slider, make the current position of the locking pins with tape, chalk, or a sticky note. Also mark the position you what to slide the axles to. Release the locking pins, and deflate the trailer air suspension.In the cab, release the tractor parking brakes, place the transmission in the direction you want to slide the trailer axles, and gently apply throttle. Be aware the slider locks may break free suddenly, so be ready to release the throttle pedal immediately. Set the tractor parking brakes, exit the cab, and verify the trailer axles are now in the position you want them to be. Since the locking holes are usually spaced four or six inches apart, you will shift about 250 pounds per hole for four-inch spacing, and 400 pounds for six-inch spacing.With the trailer axles successfully repositioned, re-engage the locking mechanism. The pins may not be perfectly centered on the holes, so you may need to rock the tractor back and forth to get the pins to engage. Do not venture out onto the road until the locks are engaged. If you have difficulty engaging the locks, driving slowly around and applying the trailer brakes can help. So does driving around on uneven ground. Gather up the wheel chocks, check for lock-pin engagement, and be sure the trailer suspension is re-inflated before driving to the scale to reweigh the truck.

Common Types of Automotive Tools list Automotive tools are many types, so many that it’s almost impossible to own them all. Your tool choices depend on several factors, chief among them necessity. If you’re a DIYer, your collection is most likely composed of basic automotive tools and if a professional, both basic and advanced types. Below is a list of basic tools and another for professional tool types.Basic Automotive Tools List Basic auto tools refer to common hand tools that find use in almost every car repair and maintenance task. Examples include those listed below. Wrench set- to remove and install bolts. One of the most used automotive tools Ratchet and socket set- for fastening and unfastening bolts in tight spaces. Also among the most used Punches and chisel set- for a wide range of uses including removing and positioning components Screwdrivers- to remove and fasten screws. Come in different shapes and sizes. Also a prying tool Pliers- useful when cutting wires, bending parts, and other tasks Multimeter- one of the diagnostic automotive tools and measures current, voltage, and capacitance Jack and jack stands- used to lift a vehicle and allow working underneath. Jack stands to ensure safe support Wheel chocks- wedges or any other structure that prevents the vehicle from accidentally moving when you’re working on it Pry bar- a large bar for jobs that involve prying or separating parts such as ball joints and shock heads Breaker bar- a socket wrench with a longer handle (around 24 inches) used to break loose stubborn bolts and nuts by increasing leverage Scissors- a type of heavy duty scissors used to cut things such as wires Hammer- usually a dead blow hammer and useful when you have to bust components Air compressor- stores compressed air that can be used to inflate tires or operate pneumatic tools such as impact wrench Cordless drill- to drill holes or remove fasteners such as rivetsFunnels- used to pour liquids and avoid messy spills Oil drip pans- to catch liquids that may spill when changing the oil filter, bleeding brakes, and more Wire terminal crimper- a useful automotive tool when working with cables and used to prepare wire ends for installation Flex magnet pickup- to find and pick bolts and other metal parts that fall in hidden spaces Socket adapters- useful when a ratchet cannot be used with the socket due to space constraints Test light- used to test for the presence of current or voltage in electric circuits Flashlight- to light up areas that are not well illuminatedLED headlamp- you need this to illuminate dark areas when working on a vehicle. Straps to the head for convenience Underhood LED light bar- a tool to light up a vehicle’s underhood when fixing things underneath a vehicle Creepers- allow you to slide under your car safely and comfortably during the repair Tire inflator- used to inflate tires. Often comes with a gauge and uses electricity Torque wrench- lets you tighten fasteners to the correct and manufacturer-specified torque values Impact wrench- makes removing bolts a breeze by using a powered mechanism Ramps- provide a means to elevate a vehicle so you can work underneath. Many people find them less safe compared to jacks Machinist vice- used to hold things firmly when working on them. A useful automotive tool for parts rebuilders Angle grinder- used to cut metal parts quickly and conveniently or level edges Digital calipers- for measuring different components to ensure their correct dimensions or to detect flaws Jump starter- allows you to start a car when the battery is not workingProtective gear- allows you to use automotive tools and equipment safely. Includes eye protection goggles and hand glovesProfessional Automotive Tools List These are popularly used by mechanics or vehicle owners who take their repair projects seriously. The most used include the following. Oil filter wrench- used when removing and installing the oil filterWheel bearing removal tools-used to replace wheel bearing when wheel bearing brokenBall joint removal tools-used to remove ball joints,tie rods ends,control arm,and pitman armCoil spring compressor-used to replace car suspension shock absorberHub puller-used to extractor axle hub from carBearing puller-used to extractor bearings( rolly bearings,tapped bearings,ball bearings etc.)injector puller-used to extractor injectorIgnition spark tester- tests if a spark plug is producing a spark or not Spark plug socket- for tightening or removing spark plugs instead of regular sockets Spark plug gauge- used to gap spark plugsTire pressure gauge- ensures vehicle tires are inflated to the correct pressureBrake caliper wind back kit- used to force back a brake caliper piston and allow enough space to mount brake pads or brake discs Laser thermometer- measures heat to diagnose car problems that involve overheating OBD11 scanner- to read trouble codes, especially when dashboard lights come on. One of the most expensive but essential types of automotive tools Wi-Fi video scope- allows you to view hidden places such as inside engine cylinders. Consists of a camera and screen linked by a Wi-Fi connection Brake bleeder and vacuum pump- used when draining or changing brake fluid to make the process easier and more efficient Rethreading set- also popular among tools for rebuilders. Used to replace the stripped thread Radiator pressure tester kit- measures radiator pressure to detect leaks. Useful when changing the coolant Cylinder compression tester kit- mechanics use this tool to check cylinder compression and diagnose gasket problems, among other issues Besides the automotive tools and equipment described above, there are supplies that every car owner or repair technician needs to stock. Important ones include electric tape, zip ties, a set of fuses, and wire connectors- not forgetting the user manual. Other important supplies include lubricants, penetrating fluid, and cleaners. In addition to commercial cleaners, it’s crucial to have soap or detergent and several buckets around. Your list is also incomplete without sponges and towels to help you wash and wipe surfaces or fire extinguisher to handle small fires

how to remove bearing from housing Since bearings with interference fits can be easily damaged during removal, precautions to prevent damage during removal should be taken. To ease removal and avoid damage, proper tools and procedures need to be employed. To remove outer rings with interference fits, it is recommended that notches or bolt holes and bolts be provided on the shoulder of the housings. The notches can be used to provide clearance for a puller to grab the outer ring for removal of the bearing. Bolts can be used to jack the bearing out of the housing. Tapped holes in the housing are provided at the bearing outer race face to perform this operation.

how to remove bearing from hub motorcycle Motorcycle wheel bearings play a crucial role in ensuring smooth and safe riding. However, removing them without a dedicated puller can be a daunting task.PreparationBefore attempting to remove the wheel bearings, gather the necessary tools: Socket wrench or impact wrench Socket setScrewdriver Hammer Drift or punch Penetrating oil (optional)  How to Remove Motorcycle Hub BearingsStep1. Remove the WheelLoosen the axle nut using the socket wrench or impact wrench.Carefully remove the axle and pull out the wheel.2. Remove the Brake Caliper Unbolt the brake caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper.Hang the caliper out of the way using a bungee cord or wire.3. Remove the Dust Seal Use a screwdriver to pry out the dust seal from the bearing housing.4. Apply Penetrating Oil (Optional) If the bearing is stuck, apply penetrating oil around the bearing to loosen it. Allow it to sit for a few minutes.5. Use a Drift or Punch Insert a drift or punch into the gap between the bearing and the wheel hub.Tap the drift or punch lightly with a hammer to drive the bearing out.Rotate the bearing as you tap to prevent damage to the hub.6. Use a Socket Extension If a drift or punch is not available, insert a socket extension into the bearing housing.Use the socket wrench or impact wrench to gently tap the socket extension against the bearing.7. Use a Slide Hammer (Optional) For stubborn bearings, a slide hammer can be used.Attach the slide hammer to the bearing using a suitable adapter.Pull the slide hammer back and release it to generate force to remove the bearing. How to Install Motorcycle Wheel Bearings To install new wheel bearings: Clean out the hub. Drive in the new bearings, being sure to add the center spacer. Make sure to only apply force to the outside bearing race. If you hit the inside race, you will destroy the bearing. Pack your new bearings with grease. Replace the bearing seal or retainer and reinstall your axles and wheels. Refer to your shop manual for the exact sequence. If wheel bearings are proving difficult to remove or to get it, you can heat up the hub to make the job a lot easier.

How To Adjust Your Motorcycle Chain Motorcycle Safety Note: Adjusting your motorcycle chain can significantly affect the safe rideability of the bike. If you cannot safely adjust your motorcycle chain, get a professional to make the adjustments.Check Your Motorcycle Chain Slack Measurements.The first step I do is prepare for both the measurement and the chain adjustment by collecting and staging my tools.  Motorcycle Chain Slack Measurement Tools I use: Small ruler or measuring tape. Combination wrenches sized for motorcycle chain tensioner bolts. Socket/combination wrenches for loosening/tightening the rear axle.Tip: Whenever I loosen or tighten a bolt, I have a thread locker ready to use. Working in a safe garage is always a good step: (Motorcycle Garage Safety Rules ).Now some needed information is necessary when measuring your motorcycle’s chain slack.Measure The Motorcycle Chain Slack.Since the bike’s chain moves while a rider is seated, I measure my chain slack while the bike has weight on the seat.This added weight can be done a few ways, but the easiest I found was getting a helper. With the bike off and in gear, weight applied to the seat, gently rolling the bike backward to tighten the upper section of the motorcycle chain, I measured the lower section.I measure the distance the motorcycle chain sags from the swing arm with a ruler or measuring tape. With this reading, I push up on the chain and note the difference in the bike chain moving from the lowest to the highest position.  Based on the results, I either tighten, loosen, or leave my motorcycle chain alone. How To Adjust A Motorcycle Chain.When measuring my motorcycle chain slack, the weight was on the bike. No weight should be on the bike while adjusting the chain. The rear axle will be loosened, which can make the bike unstable.However, I reapply weight to the motorcycle seat for slack measurements to check the chain slack during adjustment.FYI: additional motorcycle chain loose symptoms: Chain slap, clicking noises from the loose chain links hitting chain guards, or even chain popping off sprockets. Or your bike chain sagging too low. How To Tighten A Motorcycle Chain: To tighten the motorcycle chain, we must lengthen the distance the chain travels from the front sprocket to the rear sprocket. Just another easy step in how to adjust your motorcycle chain. 1.- Loosen The Motorcycle Axle. Loosen the motorcycle’s rear axle just enough to allow axle movement on the swing arm. 2.- Loosen The Chain Tensioner’s Lock Nuts. Loosen the tensioner lock nuts and unthread them enough to access the chain tension adjustment nuts.3.- Lengthen The Motorcycle Chain Travel DistanceTo increase the travel distance, I tighten the motorcycle chain tensioner nuts equally.Equally, if I do one complete turn on the left chain tensioner nut, I do an equal one full turn. At the same time, pay attention to the rear tire’s alignment to the motorcycle’s center-line. 4.- Recheck The Motorcycle Chain Slack.tighten the rear axle quickly, and again while applying weight to the motorcycle seat, I recheck the motorcycle chain slack. If within chain spec, I secure my work (outlined below in Securing Rear Axle section).Is The Motorcycle Chain Slack Too Little Or Too Tight?FYI: additional motorcycle chain too tight symptoms: Chain breaking prematurely, broken motor mounts ( Broke A Motorcycle Motor Mount Bolt ), and premature chain and motorcycle sprocket teeth wear.How To Loosen A Motorcycle Chain:To loosen the motorcycle chain, we must shorten the distance the chain travels from the front sprocket to the rear sprocket. Just another easy step in how to adjust your motorcycle, so take your time.1.- Loosen The Rear Motorcycle Axle.Loosen the motorcycle’s rear axle just enough to allow axle movement on the swing arm.2.- Loosen The Chain Tensioner’s Lock Nuts. loosen and unthread the lock nuts enough to access the chain tension adjustment nuts.3.- Shorten The Motorcycle Chain Travel distance.To increase the travel distance, I tighten the motorcycle chain tensioner nuts equally.  Equally, if I do one complete turn on the left chain tensioner nut, I do an equal one full turn. At the same time, pay attention to the rear tire’s alignment to the motorcycle’s center-line..4.- Recheck The Motorcycle Chain Slack.tighten the rear axle quickly, and again while applying weight to the motorcycle seat, I recheck the motorcycle chain slack.Completed The Motorcycle Chain Adjustment.Once I have the motorcycle chain adjusted and rechecked to my satisfaction, I secure the chain in place.tightened the rear axle at the end of each motorcycle chain tensioner adjustment. 1.- Tighten And Torque The Rear Axle.Tighten the rear axle to the manufacturer’s specs using your Motorcycle Owner’s Manual.2.- Set Motorcycle Chain Tensioner’s Lock Nuts.As mentioned above, I like to use thread-locker on my motorcycles and feel the motorcycle chain tensioner lock nuts are a perfect opportunity to use them.I apply a thread locker to the threads behind the motorcycle chain tensioner adjustment nuts.While holding the motorcycle chain tensioner adjustment nut with one wrench, I tighten the lock nuts against the adjustment nuts with another wrench.3.- Recheck Motorcycle Chain Adjustment/Slack.This is a quick check to ensure I didn’t move anything out of whack while securing my adjustments.I check the chain slack with the weight on the seat.I check the wheel alignment with the bike’s frame. The rear wheel should be lined up centerline with the motorcycle frame, and the motorcycle chain should easily move on and off the sprockets.4.- Easy Test Ride, After Adjusting The Motorcycle Chain.With the motorcycle off, I hold the clutch and roll the bike back and forth. Now that I have actual rider weight on the bike and move the chain on and off the sprockets, I listen for any problems(clicking, creaking, or chain slap).Once I’m satisfied with no adverse sounds, I gently ride while making stops to check the state of my motorcycle chain.  Once everything looks and sounds good, I ride and enjoy my work.Remember: Adjust Your Motorcycle Chain As Needed.Now the steps sound long and detailed, but adjusting your motorcycle chain is easy and contributes to long and safe rides and lower chain maintenance and replacement costs.After the initial new motorcycle chain stretch, adjustments might happen less often, and a quick visual check is all that is necessary before each ride.

what's Silent blocks  Silent blocks (hereinafter referred to as “s / b”) are a suspension part, which is two metal bushings, between which there is a rubber insert. The silent block connects the suspension parts to each other, dampens vibrations between the nodes. Silent blocks contribute to a comfortable ride due to the elasticity of the rubber, which serves as a damper between the suspension parts.  Silent blocks work to avoid deformation of suspension parts and bodywork. They are the first to take shocks and vibrations, after which they are damped by shock absorbers. Also silent blocks are divided into the following categories:  ● design (with one, two bushings or without metal elements);  ● design load (continuous elastic insert or with holes);  ● type of fastening (bushings or case with eyes);  ● mobility (medium mobility and “floating”);  ● material (rubber or polyurethane). Structurally, silent blocks differ in shape, depending on the design of the lever. Most often, two bushings are used on triangular levers of the MacPherson type front suspension - rear silent blocks with two bushings, front ones with an inner bolt, there is no outer clip. By the way, the rear s/b of the front suspension can be hydrofilled. This design allows you to better absorb the vibration energy, but as soon as the liquid begins to flow out, the efficiency of silent blocks decreases sharply.According to the design load, it is better to use continuous s / b, their resource is much higher. In terms of mobility, “floating” silent blocks are worth special attention. They are used in the rear multi-link suspension, they can be pressed into the steering knuckle or transverse rod. The “floating” hub has a second task - to allow the wheel to turn freely at a certain angle, while remaining motionless in the vertical and horizontal plane. The product is a cage, closed on both sides with anther, inside of which a hinge is installed. Due to the movement of the hinge, the rear suspension “steers” when necessary, the car on the road is more stable in sharp turns due to this .. The main disadvantage of the “floating” bushing is that that the rubber boot is too vulnerable to an aggressive environment, after which it passes dust and moisture, sharply reducing the life of the part.  Where are the silent blocks located?Rubber-metal bushings are used in the following suspension parts:  ● front and rear levers;  ● longitudinal and transverse traction of the rear suspension;  ● as stabilizer bushings;  ● in turning fists;  ● in shock absorbers;  ● as a fastening of the power unit and transmission;  ● on stretchers. The use of full-fledged silent blocks instead of rubber bushings significantly improved the technical characteristics of the chassis due to the fact that the rubber in the rigid sleeve works better for twisting, dampens vibrations more efficiently and does not wear out so quickly. Types and types of silent blocks There are two categories by which all silent blocks are classified:  ● By the material from which they are made;  ● By type (shape and design). The bushings for the rear beam and front control arms are made of rubber or polyurethane. By type they are distinguished:  ● Standard non-collapsible. Such parts have a metal cage with a rubber insert inside. There are also modifications with one metal insert. In this case, it will be placed inside the rubber base.  ● Perforated silent block or with cavities in the rubber part. Such silent blocks provide smooth twisting of the lever. The part must be pressed in evenly so that the load is distributed over the entire working part of the element.  ● Silent block with asymmetric lugs. Such parts do not have a through mounting hole. Instead, lugs are used. This design allows you to fix parts that are in offset planes relative to each other.  ● Floating design. Externally, floating silent blocks are similar to ball bearings. So that during operation the rubber part does not wear out, it is covered with a rubber boot. This modification provides a smooth movement of the part mounted on it. They can be used for levers, but more often they are installed in the steering knuckles of the hub.When they change Silent blocks are replaced only with obvious wear, in other cases it makes no sense to touch them. It is strongly recommended that you change the rubber-metal part from two sides, because on the move the suspension begins to manifest itself inadequately due to the difference in the operation of the levers. By the way, not every suspension starts to "sound" when the s / w is worn. For example: the car Mercedes-Benz W210 and BMW 7-series E38 to the last remain “silence”, even when the silent blocks are completely torn. This suggests that running gear should be diagnosed based on mileage and the first signs of inadequate suspension behavior.

THE MOST COMMON TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ISSUES IN HEAVY-DUTY TRUCKS TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS GEAR SLIPPING AND GRINDING NOISES Gear slipping occurs when the transmission fails to stay engaged in the selected gear. This will result in a loss of power, weaker acceleration, and engine revving without increased speed. ‍If you hear grinding coming from your transmission, then this is a clear indicator of worn-out synchronizers.DELAYED ENGAGEMENT OR SHIFTING Noticeable delays between shifting gears and the transmission responding are common issues experienced by heavy-duty trucks with transmission and clutch issues. TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKS Transmission leaks are indicated by a puddle beneath your car and are brought on by damaged transmission lines, seals, or gaskets. This needs to be addressed promptly, as leaks can lead to poor lubrication and an overheating transmission, which can cause severe component damage. OVERHEATING Excessive heat in the transmission can cause the transmission fluid to break down and result in excessive wear. TORQUE CONVERTER PROBLEMS If your truck is automatic, it will come with a torque converter. Issues with torque converters can result in transmission slipping, shuddering, or failure to transmit power efficiently. ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) MALFUNCTIONS Erratic shifting, improper gear selection, and the illumination of warning lights on your dashboard are all signs that your ECM is experiencing problems. CLOGGED TRANSMISSION FILTER Your truck’s transmission filter traps contaminants and debris present in the transmission fluid. If it becomes clogged, it restricts fluid flow, resulting in decreased performance and damage to the transmission. WORN TRANSMISSION BANDS Used to lock specific gears in place, these can become worn or loose over time. This can lead to difficulty maintaining certain gears or shifting properly. VIBRATIONS OR ODD NOISES If you experience these during gear shifts, then this could indicate an issue with your transmission mounts or internal components like bearings and gears. FLUID CONTAMINATION Mixing different types of fluids can lead to reduced performance and premature wear of transmission components. CLUTCH PROBLEMS CLUTCH SLIPPING This happens when your clutch fails to engage your flywheel, causing a loss of power transmission from the engine to the transmission. This is brought on by a worn-out clutch disc or pressure plate and results in decreased acceleration and difficulty maintaining speed, particularly when carrying heavy loads. CLUTCH STICKING Clutch sticking occurs when your clutch does not disengage fully when the driver presses the clutch pedal, causing difficulty shifting gears. Clutch sticking tends to stem from issues with the release bearing or a binding clutch linkage. CLUTCH PEDAL ISSUES Excessive play or a soft, spongy feel to your brake pedal is usually caused by a worn-out or misjudged clutch pedal assembly, which can lead to issues engaging or disengaging the clutch properly. WORN OUT CLUTCH COMPONENTS The clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearings are subject to significant wear over time due to frequent engagement and disengagement during gear changes. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM MALFUNCTIONS Hydraulic fluid is used to transfer the clutch pedals' force to the clutch assembly. Leaks, air bubbles, or problems with the master cylinder or slave cylinder can result in inconsistent clutch engagement. CLUTCH CHATTER Juddering or vibrations when engaging the clutch can result from a contaminated clutch disc, improper clutch break-in, or misaligned clutch components. CLUTCH NOISE Grinding, rattling, or squealing noises when operating the clutch can indicate issues with the clutch assembly or related components. WORN FLYWHEEL Over time, this can become worn or damaged, affecting clutch engagement and performance. IMPROPER ADJUSTMENT Improper adjustments of the clutch linkage, cable, or hydraulic systems will require attention to ensure smooth operation. DRIVER HABITS Aggressive driver habits such as “riding the clutch” or excessive slipping during gear changes can accelerate wear and lead to premature failure. CAUSES OF TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH PROBLEMS POOR MAINTENANCE PRACTICES Ignoring regular fluid changes, inspections, and adjustments can lead to accumulating debris, wear particles, and contaminants in the transmission and clutch systems, causing premature failure. OVERLOADING Trucks are designed to carry specific weights. Overloading these vehicles can cause excessive stress on the transmission and clutch, accelerating wear and causing potential failure. DRIVER HABITS AND OPERATOR ERRORS Stop-and-go driving, excessive clutch slipping, harsh gear changes, and failure to engage the clutch fully can significantly impact the transmission and clutch lifespan. INADEQUATE COOLING AND OVERHEATING Challenging environments, including steep hills, extreme temperatures, and heavy loads, are all situations that your truck may find itself in. Lack of cooling or excessive workload can lead to transmission damage. FLUID CONTAMINATION Incorrect or contaminated fluid can impact transmission performance and cause component damage. MISALIGNMENT OR MECHANICAL ISSUES Misalignment between the engine and transmission, as well as other mechanical issues within the drivetrain, can place undue stress on the clutch and transmission components. CLUTCH ABUSE AND RIDING “Riding the clutch” keeps the clutch partially engaged while driving, leading to excessive wear on clutch components. ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS Harsh weather, road conditions, and exposure to corrosive substances can impact the transmission and clutch systems, leading to deterioration and premature failure. AGE AND MILEAGE Older trucks with high mileage are more prone to experiencing wear and tear-related issues. REPAIRING TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ISSUES FLUID REPLACEMENT Issues related to low/contaminated fluid or overheating begin with a fluid replacement. Drain and replace with the manufacturer-recommended fluid. ADJUSTMENTS AND LINKAGE CHECKS Verify the clutch linkage and adjust if necessary to ensure the clutch engages and disengages correctly. This can be helpful for a stuck or dragging clutch. CLUTCH SLIPPING FIX Slipping due to worn-out components, the clutch assembly needs to be replaced. This involves removing the transmission, replacing the clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing, and replacing the system. REPAIRING LEAKS Identify the leak and repair or replace the damaged seals, gaskets, or transmission lines. TRANSMISSION BAND ADJUSTMENT Worn or loose transmission bands may need adjustments or replacement. TORQUE CONVERTER REPLACEMENT Malfunctioning torque converters may need to be fully replaced. ECM DIAGNOSES AND RESETS For electronic transmission issues, perform a diagnostic test scan to retrieve error codes from the ECM. Troubleshoot and address the issues, and then rest the ECM. FLYWHEEL RESURFACING AND REPLACEMENT Flywheels can be resurfaced to restore their smooth surface or replaced if necessary. TRANSMISSION REBUILD OR REPLACEMENT Severe transmission issues may require a full transmission rebuild or replacement. This is a complex procedure that should be handled by professionals offering comprehensive transmission repairs. COMPREHENSIVE INSPECTIONS Once repairs are complete, carry out a thorough inspection and test drive your truck to ensure that the transmission and clutch are functioning correctly. FINAL THOUGHTS Being aware of common transmission and clutch issues in heavy-duty trucks empowers owners and operators to take proactive measures for timely repairs and maintenance. By addressing problems promptly and seeking professional assistance when needed, you can ensure safer, more reliable, and more efficient truck operations, extending the lifespan of these critical components.